What metal is used when forging Damascus. Damascus steel from scratch

Hundreds of modern steels are suitable for compiling a package, I will name only a small number. The chemical composition is suitable for shh15, shh4, shh20SG, ShH15SG, 65G, 50XFA, 60C2XFA, 70G, 70C2HA, 5KHNM, 5XGM, 5x2MNF, 6XVG, 5XNV, 9XS, HVG, U8, U10, U12, U13A, etc. According to the temperature of forging and hardening, wx15, y8 and 65g are ideal for each other. The temperature for their welding is about 1100 degrees, the forging temperature is 900-1000 degrees, the hardening temperature is 850 degrees. All these steels comply with the "three rules", and they are easy to find in everyday life.

Used in equal proportions, these steels produce Damascus steel with a carbon content of 0.8%. To make a package, we will forge these steels into plates of approximately 15 * 5 * 1 cm of the same size. We will add a 6-layer package from them: y8 - wx15 - 65g - y8 - wx15 - 65g So that the package does not fall apart in the corners, we will grab it with electric welding and weld a handle from a piece of reinforcement 50-60 cm long from the end. The package for welding is ready. Now let's put it in a heated forge and bring it to a temperature of 850-900 degrees, this is a red-orange color. We will pull out the package from the forge by the handle and put it on the edge so that all layers of steel stand vertically. Put a handful of borax on top of the bag. The borax should melt and flow through the bag. If the borax has not leaked, you need to add more. If the borax is not all melted, you need to hold the bag with borax in the furnace over coal until the borax melts. Then you need to rotate the package 90 degrees so that all layers of metal are horizontal with respect to the ground. In this state, the drill should boil between the layers of steel for several minutes. This is necessary in order for the drill to dissolve all the slag and scale on the metal, which is formed when the metal is heated in the furnace. Then we take out the package warmed up to orange, this is about 900-950 degrees Celsius. We put the package under the hammer and with light blows we forge from one edge to the other. With this action, we squeeze out the liquid borax with all the slags. It is not desirable to forge over the entire surface of the package, a borax may remain inside the package, which will later lead to "lack of fusion". After all the borax is squeezed out of the package, the package has not yet been welded. there is no air access to the metal to be welded.This whole process must be carried out very carefully and preferably in protective glasses.Hot borax splashes from the bag several meters in different directions and this is very traumatic.Place the bag in the furnace again and heat it up to a welding temperature of about 1100 degrees, white color heat. The color of the package should resemble the color of a hot sun. While the package is heated to the welding temperature, it must be constantly monitored and constantly turned in the furnace so as not to get burned. As soon as the metal lit up like a Bengal fire, this is a burnout. The readiness of the package for welding is visible when the package is evenly heated to a white heat, there are no dark spots on it and sparks are just starting to bounce off it. The package ready for welding is removed from the hearth and forged on a hammer along its entire length. In the future, you need to stretch the package into a strip by forging. The hood in the strip must be carried out at a heating temperature lower than the welding temperature of about 950-1000 degrees - yellow heat. By forging the package "on edge" at a temperature of 950-1000 degrees, you will immediately see if there is a lack of penetration, in the place of "lack of penetration" the layers will disperse. Lack of penetration is not so terrible, in the place where the layers have diverged, borax is poured again and the welding process is repeated. Terrible burnout. In the place of burnout, steel is no longer treated. After the package is pulled into a strip, it can be cut into a hot one or simply cut with a grinder, let's say, into three equal parts. These parts are again folded into a bag and the welding process is repeated. So from 6 layers you get a package of 18 layers, then from 54, etc. The pattern resulting from this forging process is called "wild Damascus pattern". To get a clear contrasting wild pattern, you need to type in a bag of about 300-500 layers. During the forging process, only about 2 kg of the finished product will remain from our 3.5 kg package, the rest of the metal burned out during the forging process. To improve the quality of Damascus steel, the last extraction of the package into a strip must be carried out at a temperature of 850-900 degrees red-orange color of heat. This allows you to achieve a fine-grained steel structure. It is best to harden Damascus steel in used engine oil. After hardening, the pattern on the steel becomes even stronger. It is impossible to harden Damascus steel in water, it can simply break there. Japanese blacksmiths harden their swords in water, but they coat them with refractory clay before tempering. After quenching in oil, Damascus will have a hardness of approximately 60-64 Rockwell units. To relieve internal stresses in Damascus steel, it must be released. This is done by heating the steel twice to a temperature of 180-200 degrees for 1 hour. This process can be carried out even at home in the kitchen in the oven. The drawing on steel is revealed by etching it in a 5% solution of nitric acid or in ferric chloride. Each master selects the concentration of ferric chloride for himself. You need to start learning how to make Damascus steel from the “wild Damascus”, and from there you can already move on to making more complex patterns. One more piece of advice for those who warm up the package in a coal furnace. It is desirable to use coke as a fuel, it slagging the grate less and gives more heat. And the package itself is desirable to warm up in the upper layers of coal or even on top of the coal. In these layers, the air, passing from the bottom to the top, practically remains without oxygen. All oxygen burns out passing through coal, and in the upper layers of coal it is highly enriched with carbon dioxide. As a result, in the upper layers of coal, the metal almost does not oxidize and is partially carburized and reduced.

The art of metal forging is currently undergoing a renaissance. The skill of such blacksmiths-gunsmiths as Leonid Arkhangelsky, Sergey Danilin, Andrey Koreshkov testifies that Russian weapon art and traditions of blade making remain unsurpassed to this day.

The articles published by master blacksmiths widely cover the issue of the history of their art, the theoretical basis for the manufacture of, say, cast damask steel, but I am sure that many people read these articles in order to get an answer to the questions: "How is it done?" what to start?" and similar ones, but, at best, they stumble upon a statement of the fact of the complexity of such art and its accessibility only to the initiated. In this article, I will try to highlight the art of a blacksmith-gunsmith from scratch, for those who want to start doing this fascinating activity, but do not know where to get close to him. The article will be devoted mostly to complex-technological composites. The fact is that I began to get acquainted with the art of forging from independent attempts to get Damascus steel, therefore, first of all, I count on readers who, as they say, "rave about Damascus." I will touch on the basic forging techniques very moderately, ~ firstly, enough literature is already devoted to this; secondly, in order to learn how to simply forge, you can find a private forge and work as an apprentice for several months, but it is difficult to become an apprentice to an eminent blade maker who makes patterned composites. I hope that this article compensates for this injustice a little. I will also not touch on the problem of hardening in this article - competent hardening of steel, especially Damascus steel - the material is limitless, but basic information on hardening steels with different carbon contents can be gleaned from metal science textbooks. I want to make a reservation right away that these materials are in no way a guide to the manufacture of edged weapons, which, let me remind you, in accordance with Art. 223 of the Criminal Code of the Russian Federation is a criminal offense. A plate of hand-forged Damascus, polished and etched, will bring you at first no less satisfaction than a knife or sword. I am going to talk about how to make the MATERIAL, and I am not responsible for the further use of this material. In the absence of a license to manufacture weapons or if it is impossible to find a job at an enterprise that has such a license, you can always find a way to do what you love without violating the norms of the Criminal Code and the Law of the Russian Federation "On Weapons". Basic tools. So let's get started. First of all, you need equipment. Some of it will need to be purchased, some you can make yourself. You should start by determining the territory on which your blacksmith workshop will be located. If you have a suburban land plot- wonderful, even in the most primitive version of the forge - in the open - forging from April to November is provided to you. In addition, open-air forging automatically solves the important problem of removing gaseous products of fuel combustion, most of which are toxic. In order not to depend on the weather, it is necessary to install a canopy on poles over the place of the future forge, the roof of which must be made of iron sheet, since the temperature even two meters above the mountain is sufficient for a quick fire. If you do not have the opportunity to work in the bosom of nature, then the forge can be equipped indoors. The main problems that arise in this case are the hood and fire safety. In addition, the use of a forge, for example, a garage requires much more capital investment and is associated with great organizational difficulties. Wherever you are located, flammable and flammable building materials and substances cannot be used near the fire of the forge, the floor, ceiling and walls of the room must be metal or concrete, and a powerful hood must be located above the mountain. Personally, I still prefer to work outdoors under a canopy and in my experience, this is possible even in winter. Having decided on a place for the workshop, it is necessary to solve the "blacksmith's main issue" - the issue with the tool. Unfortunately, it is very difficult to buy a blacksmith tool now. Those items that are simply necessary to purchase include: Locksmith workbench with a vise. The vise is desirable powerful and rigidly fastened to the table top of the workbench. The acquisition of both usually does not cause difficulties.

Anvil. Luckily, they haven't stopped making them yet. In principle, you can work on any suitable piece of iron weighing at least 20 kg. and with a flat surface, but this is fraught with some difficulties. First, on the unhardened surface of a homemade anvil, nicks from the hammer will soon appear, which will then move to the surface of the workpiece. Secondly, you will be deprived of the opportunity to use those special surfaces that the branded anvil has (horns, etc.). Therefore, I advise you to still purchase a ready-made anvil, and the larger its mass and the area of \u200b\u200bthe working surface, the less you will be constrained in your creative imagination. The anvil is mounted on a wooden block sunk into the ground in such a way that, standing next to it, the blacksmith can touch the surface of the anvil with the fingertips of his lowered hand. Naturally, the base deck should not stagger, and any fall of the entire structure or the anvil itself should be excluded. Sledgehammer set. At first, I advise you to get the following set of sledgehammers that can be purchased at hardware stores: a small sledgehammer weighing 1-2 kg, an average weighing 5 kg and a large sledgehammer for working with a hammer weighing 8-10 kg. All sledgehammers must be extremely securely mounted on the handle and wedged. The combat surfaces must be flat, they should be maintained in this state, if necessary, leveling the plane on the grindstone. In addition to this set, you should also get a set of large hammers weighing 0.5-1 kg for fine work. In some cases, you will also need hammers with a spherical combat surface, which can be made from ordinary ones using an electric grinder.

Blacksmith pliers. This is a difficult question. You most likely will not be able to buy real blacksmith tongs. Making your own is also very difficult. To get out of the situation, I advise you to purchase several large carpenter's tongs and refine them. Some ticks are left unchanged. In the second, sharpened sponges are ground down to obtain a flat grasping surface. At the third, semicircular cutouts for round blanks are cut in the sponges. Long (70-100 cm) handles are welded to all pliers (it is convenient to use thin water pipes for this, putting them on the pliers handles and scalding them with electric welding.) It should be noted that due to shock loads, the pliers fail quite quickly. It is necessary to monitor the serviceability of ticks - the quality of work greatly depends on them.

Chisels. You will need several large quality chisels. A real blacksmith's chisel is designed like a hammer and has a handle perpendicular to the body of the tool. It will be very difficult to hold a short chisel over a hot workpiece, so the chisels must either be quite long (about 40 cm), or they must be equipped with handles, simply by welding a pipe or a thick rod to the chisel body at about the middle of the length, which can be both parallel, and perpendicular to the cutting plane of the chisel. You need to work with such a chisel with an assistant.

Power tool. Absolutely necessary will be an electric grinder (or, as an equivalent, an angle grinder ("grinder") with a set of cutting and peeling wheels) and an electric welding machine (Rusich, which runs on a conventional mains, is convenient). Observe safety precautions when working with these devices!

Forge. With this set of tools, you can already get to work. However, there remains one more device that is rightfully considered the main one in the forge. This is a blacksmith's forge. The question of how to arrange a horn in practice is perhaps the most difficult and often it is the absence of a horn that stops beginners. Let's solve this issue too. I congratulate the reader who has the opportunity to purchase a standard gas or electric forge. However, most do not have such an opportunity, so I offer simple and effective designs of a forge that gives the required temperature, tested on my own experience. The main parts of any hearth are: a fire bowl with or without a grate, and a device for supplying the air necessary for the combustion process. With this device and there are difficulties. Proven path - vacuum cleaners. For a medium-sized forge, two Soviet-made vacuum cleaners are enough to ensure an acceptable temperature. This option is also the most inexpensive, since even two new domestic vacuum cleaners will still cost less than any other air supply device. In addition, vacuum cleaners provide good pressure and air supply intensity. They, for convenience, should be equipped with a single switch. It is desirable that it be in the form of a pedal and be constantly under the blacksmith's foot. It should also be possible to turn off one of the vacuum cleaners, for example, to reduce the blast during some blacksmithing operations. As for all kinds of blowers and fans, they are, of course, good, but it should be borne in mind that insufficient air supply is possible, as a result of which fuel combustion will be inactive and the required temperature will not be reached. Two vacuum cleaners supply sufficient air to a rectangular fire bowl measuring 300 x 200 mm, which is quite enough for forging long products and provides the most economical fuel consumption. Therefore, in the further description of the hearth device, I will rely on such dimensions of the fire bowl. The device of the forge is possible in two main ways, which will be described below.

The first option is the so-called "Japanese horn". It is built right into the ground. To work with him, you will have to make a low bench nearby or sit on the ground. This is due to the peculiarities of the Japanese forge - the Japanese do not forge while standing, but sitting, and all the tools and the anvil are located directly on the bare floor. However, no one bothers to put the Japanese horn on a stand and raise it above ground level. The most important feature such a device - the absence of a grate. Air is supplied from the side directly into the mass of burning fuel. This design is easy to clean, gives a good temperature and can be recommended for use without any reservations. The second option is the usual European open bugle. It consists of two parts - the lower one, into which air is supplied, and the upper one - directly to the fire bowl, separated by a grate. Since the products of combustion of fuel (ash and slag) enter the lower part of the hearth through the grate, the grate must be removable to ensure cleaning, for which a steel corner with a shelf width of 5-6 cm is welded in the middle of the height along the perimeter of the hearth, on which the grate is laid . This horn is also convenient to use. The body of the forge, whatever it may be, is most conveniently welded from sheet iron with a thickness of at least 5 mm. Such a forge will work for a long time and its walls will not burn out soon. The grate is welded from reinforcement with a diameter of 10 mm or more, and the distance between the bars should be less than their diameter. I recommend setting the hearth on a base made of refractory bricks on kiln clay, at a height convenient for work. To reduce heat transfer, it is also recommended to line the side surfaces of the hearth with the same brick on refractory clay. This design is durable and aesthetically pleasing. The figures show the recommended dimensions for two versions of the hearth, the air supply to which is carried out by two vacuum cleaners. At the same time, pipes for supplying air are welded into the body of the forge, the outer end of which is adapted for connecting a vacuum cleaner hose. For a better distribution of air, the pipes are introduced into the hearth from opposite sides, but in such a way that the air flow of each of them is not extinguished by the flow of the opposite one. As an adapter from the vacuum hose to the horn tube, you can use a piece of a bicycle tube with a length of approx. 150 mm, one end of which is pulled with force onto the horn pipe, and an aluminum tip of the vacuum hose is attached to the other. This method ensures tightness and minimal air loss. Firewood, charcoal and coal can be used as fuel in the hearth of the described structures. Firewood often does not provide the required temperature, charcoal is good and preferred in most cases, but quite expensive. Therefore, despite some disadvantages (the main one is the abundance of impurities that degrade the quality of steel), coal is most often used, best of all, shiny anthracite. Before use, it is crushed into cubes with a side of up to 3-4 cm. There are many ways to kindle a forge, I recommend starting with obtaining a stable flame by burning bark, wood chips, paper and small wooden logs with only one running vacuum cleaner, and then gradually add small pieces of coal and , after their ignition, increase the blast by turning on the second vacuum cleaner. After a little training, you will learn how to fire the bugle the first time. So, all the difficulties in acquiring tools, installing and adjusting the forge are behind us. However, blacksmithing is a dangerous craft, so it would be useful to remind you of safety precautions. I have already spoken about fire safety rules and the prevention of carbon monoxide poisoning. In addition, there are some other rules. First, get yourself a thick canvas or leather apron that protects your chest and legs up to the knees, and use it at all times, as well as gloves (or mittens) made of the same dense material. This will help you, if not avoid, then minimize burns from hot metal drops. Eyes must be protected by goggles made of transparent glass (there will be nothing left of plastic in the atmosphere of the forge very quickly) with seals on the sides of the glasses. In addition, the horn usually gives off a high flame, so hair, especially long hair, should be protected with a headdress. The forge should always have containers with cold water and sand. Fire extinguishers are highly recommended. Remember that the main skill of a blacksmith is the ability to work without injury to yourself and others! You should also take into account the location of all elements of the forge relative to each other. Materials. In conclusion of this section, I will briefly describe the set of materials that will be needed in the work. First, it is, of course, steel. The more different grades of steel you have at your disposal, the better. When working on the manufacture of Damascus steel, all stainless grades you won't need. Steel is most conveniently used in the form of plates, but if you have round bars, then you can forge them into plates as a training and testing equipment. Try to keep the plates even, the same thickness and with a minimum number of nicks. The main steel grades that are easiest to find and that you will need are as follows: StZ - low-carbon steel 0.3% carbon, (mainly used for the production of hardware), tool steel U8, U9 (files, hacksaw blades - 0.8 and 0.9% carbon, respectively ), spring steel from any springs (0.5-0.7% carbon depending on the brand), cast iron (for example, from radiators - 6% carbon). When purchasing blanks at the breakups or somewhere else, always be interested in the steel grade and its chemical composition. You will need this when you later determine the composition of your composite. I repeat, the more samples of different steels you have, the better, but it is desirable that you have reliable information about each of them. In addition, stock up on pieces of reinforcement with a diameter of 10 mm of different lengths - they will be required for the manufacture of auxiliary devices, such as handles, which you will weld to the workpiece and, thereby, dispense with the use of pliers. You will also need some chemicals. This is, in particular, borax, which is used as a flux and is sold in welder shops or chemical stores. To start, you will need about 1 kg of borax. Acid is required to develop a pattern on the surface of a Damascus steel product. Traditionally, a 5% solution of nitric acid is used, but 9% table vinegar and 10% ferric chloride solution can also be used. All of these reagents give almost the same result. Observe the safety rules for storing chemicals - they should be stored in unusual containers with large inscriptions, in places inaccessible to unauthorized persons, especially children! Finally, you are fully equipped and ready to go.

There are many articles written about Damascus steel, but since you are going to do it, it is worth repeating some theoretical points. Damascus steel is made up of alternating layers of high and low carbon steel. Important role plays the average carbon content in Damascus.

It can be calculated as follows. Suppose you have cooked a package of 30 grams of StZ and 70 grams of U8. So your Damascus is 30% steel with 0.3% carbon and 70% steel with 0.8% carbon. Having made a simple proportion, we calculate that (0.3 x 0.003 + 0.7 x 0.008) x 100 = 0.65. Therefore, the average carbon content in the package is 0.65%. Not enough. And it should also be taken into account that during the first heating of the package to the welding temperature, about 0.3% of carbon burns out, and with each subsequent heating, about 0.03% more. This means that it is necessary to use more high-carbon steel grades, or to increase the relative content of U8 in the package. Using this formula, you can calculate the average amount of carbon in the package and, accordingly, choose the appropriate hardening mode. An operation called carburizing can increase the carbon content. It should also be remembered that a contrasting pattern is obtained when using steels, the difference in carbon of which is equal to or greater than 0.4%. The pickling of the finished product is carried out in one of the above reagents. In this case, the product must already be hardened (hardening increases the contrast of the pattern) and polished. The fat-free product is completely placed in the pickling solution, the operation is continued until the pattern is clearly and completely manifested. Medium-carbon Damascus The main difficulty in obtaining Damascus steel is high-quality welding of the original package. It is important that it has a sufficiently large number of layers (about 200 will be enough for a start) and the absence of defects. The main defects in the forging of Damascus are burnout and lack of penetration. A burnout is a defect in which a section of the workpiece is heated above 1200 degrees Celsius for a significant time (20-30 seconds). As a result, the steel reacts directly with the oxygen in the air - in fact, the steel burns. The burnt section of the workpiece is not subject to further processing and is usually removed. Since Damascus welding occurs at temperatures close to the burnout temperature, this defect occurs frequently and can sometimes ruin the entire job. Lack of penetration is a defect in which the layers of steel do not weld together due to unremoved scale, insufficient convergence or insufficient welding temperature. On the finished product, lack of penetration looks like a crack among the Damascus pattern. To catch the moment when the steel is already heated to welding temperature, but has not caught fire yet, only experience will help. Get ready for the fact that before you succeed, you will burn a lot of blanks. Remember: better undercooking than overburning! Lack of penetration is eliminated, although it is difficult, and the burnt workpiece can only be thrown away. In the following, when describing forging processes, I will often determine the temperature of the workpiece not in degrees, but by indicating the color of the heated metal. I hope this will help to reduce the number of lack of fusion and burns to a minimum. By own experience I know - a beginner wants to get a blank in which there are many layers as soon as possible. Etch it, and personally see for yourself the presence of a mysterious pattern characteristic of Damascus. Therefore, we will start with a technology that we will call "Damascus for Beginners". We will need 10 double-sided hacksaw blades for metal. They are wider than single-sided and more convenient as raw materials. Such canvases are made of U8 steel. When buying, try to find out how the blades are made - entirely from tool steel, or hard coating is used on a soft base. Only the former are suitable for our purposes. Also, stock up on enough soft iron tape to upholster wooden crates. Strips of any steel other than stainless steel will also be needed. U8 is still desirable. You can use old files with a thickness of about 2 mm, a length equal to half the length of the hacksaw blade and a width equal to the width of the iron band. You will put these strips in the bag as outer layers, which will prevent the thinner inner ones from completely turning into scale. You can also use softer steel, such as StZ, as outer layers, but this will lower the average carbon content of your Damascus. Use an electric sharpener or grinder to remove the teeth from the hacksaw blades. After this operation, they will become equal in width to the iron tape. Each canvas must be cut into two equal parts along the length. You will get 20 pieces of hacksaw blades. Cut 20 pieces of iron tape with metal scissors. Finally, it is desirable, using a pharmacy scale, to weigh a piece of iron tape, a piece of a hacksaw blade and a thick steel plate. You will need to know the weight when calculating the composition of the resulting steel. Now let's do an operation called package typing. This operation is thorough and long, so it is better to perform it while sitting. Lay a piece of steel, 2 mm thick, on the table. Its surface does not have to be cleaned of rust, but if it is a file, it is necessary to grind off its working surface. Moisten it with ordinary water and apply a fairly thick layer of borax (about 2-3 mm). An iron strip is placed on the layer of borax, moistened, a layer of borax is applied. On it is a piece of a hacksaw blade, moistened, a layer of borax is applied. Thus, layers of iron, borax and steel alternate until 5 pieces of hacksaw blade are used. On the upper section of the iron strip, put a piece of thick steel, the same as at the very beginning of the package. Now pull the package very carefully with clamps along the edges and, trying not to spill out the drill, weld its beginning and end with electric welding. Then, to reduce the possibility of delamination, boil in several places along the length. In this case, pieces of steel wire or nails can be applied across the side surface of the package and welded. This will serve as an additional guarantee against delamination. In the process of welding, it is necessary to add borax powder to those places from where it woke up or flowed out when heated by electric welding. The final step in creating the package is welding the handle to one of its ends. This will be a piece of rebar about 20 cm long when using tongs, or 1 m when working without tongs. Try to make the handle welding place as strong as possible. If the handle falls off when the package is heated in the forge, it will be very problematic to get it out of there. When you succeed, most likely, the package will no longer be usable due to overburning. It is even advisable to grind off one of the ends of the rod used as a handle to a small thickness and wedge it between the layers of the package, and then scald it. As one of the layers, you can use a rod forged onto a plate at one end. Its long tail forms a handle. This option is the most reliable. Whatever the case, you should get 4 bags of the same design. As an alternative to electric welding, the following technology can be used. The package is first assembled without a drill, after which through holes are drilled with an electric drill at the beginning and at the end of the package. Further, according to the technology described above, the package is assembled with borax and bolted through the drilled holes. This technique is in some cases more effective, as it provides a reliable tightening of the package. And with the use of electric welding, in a hot forge, the package can fall apart. Some authors of literature on Damascus steel advise assembling the package without borax at all, which plays the role of a flux during welding, and sprinkle the package already warmed up in the forge with borax. I wouldn't recommend this for beginners. In the middle of the package, there may be places to which the molten borax will not flow. In them, lack of penetration is formed. As you gain experience, you will reach a degree of skill where you can flux and weld a package assembled without borax, but at first it is better to play it safe. In addition, the use of technology with pre-loading of the drill allows laying steel with an uncleaned surface into the package - with a layer of rust, scale, etc. And in the latter method, all layers of steel must be thoroughly cleaned. So, you have collected four packages. Inspect them carefully - all the cracks between the layers should be tightly packed with borax. Make sure the long handles are welded to the bags as securely as possible. Fire up the horn. When the flame is steady and the forge is at full blast, carefully place the first bag into the mass of burning embers. It is very important that the bag heats up evenly. It must be constantly monitored, rotated around the longitudinal axis and moved if the heating is uneven. Remember that the workpiece in the hearth seems to be hotter in color than it really is.

It is very important to learn how to catch that single moment when you need to pull out and forge the workpiece. Usually, the beginning of this moment is characterized by the appearance of small sparks, like a Bengal fire, that emanate from the surface of the workpiece. Be on the lookout - these sparks indicate the approach of the maximum welding temperature and the beginning of the burning of the metal. Wait until sparks fly from the entire area of the workpiece, and not just from any one area. At this point, quickly remove the workpiece (its color should be from lemon yellow to white, with an abundance of sparks). Place it on the anvil, and with frequent blows of a small sledgehammer, hammer it from end to beginning and back. Turn over and forge again from end to beginning and back. If everything went well, the welding has already taken place. For a guarantee, forge the workpiece with even flat strokes until it reaches the red color. Forge welding is possible at and at lower temperatures, for example, with a light orange glow of the metal, but the risk of cold lack of penetration is increased. If the shape of the workpiece after this series of forging is not perfectly rectangular, heat it again, just until orange. Adjust the shape of the workpiece so that it is as close to rectangular as possible, and both surfaces are as flat and even as possible. The thickness of the workpiece after this, the first welding, should be about 4-5 mm. In this way, forge and weld all four packages. After that, the four plates obtained can be reassembled into a bag and boiled, but I recommend stopping, taking a break and at the same time examining the quality of the weld. When the forgings have cooled down, grind off a small layer of metal from the side of the package with a grinder or electric grinder.

If you see only the shiny surface of solid steel, the welding went well.

When dark lines are visible - the boundaries between the layers, it means that lack of penetration was allowed. With one or two small lack of penetration, the process can be continued. Most likely, delamination will not occur, and lack of fusion will be eliminated during further welding. If the lack of fusion is large, then the package should be heated up, cover the uncooked place with a layer of borax, continue heating to welding temperature, and forge the uncooked place over the entire width of the plate again.

So, you have in your hands four plates of 13 alternating layers. Having collected them in a bag and boiled, we get a plate in 52 layers. While hot, cut it with a chisel lengthwise into 2 or, if the width allows, 3 parts. While the process of cutting with a chisel scares you, you can cut the plate with a thin cutting wheel, however, in this case, some of the metal will fall into the sawdust. Collecting in a package and welding the resulting plates, it is theoretically possible to obtain any number of layers. But it should be borne in mind that initially rather thin layers of metal were laid in the package, therefore, with more than 200 layers, the pattern will be very thin and difficult to distinguish. Therefore, I recommend stopping at 150-200 layers. At the final welding, try to make the package take on a smaller length and width, but a greater thickness than those that you have outlined for the future product. This is necessary for the final metal forming process. So, you have received the original piece of Damascus steel. It contains about 0.6% carbon - the Japanese consider such steel to be optimal. This is the so-called "wild" Damascus. When etching a product from it, you will get a pattern of almost parallel lines of different thicknesses. This Damascus is also called "striped". You can be satisfied with it, or try to somehow complicate the pattern.

Option one: "Peacock's Eye".

This is a pattern in which concentric circles, ovals or squares meet. The pattern is achieved in the following way. Before molding the product from the resulting plate, on its side surfaces with a drill or a grinding wheel, in the right places, shallow (1-2 mm) recesses of a round or elliptical shape are cut. After that, the heated plate is subjected to forging, in which its surface becomes flat again. In this case, the lower layers come to the surface and form concentric figures. The use of this method gives quite ample opportunities in the formation of a pattern.

A fundamentally different way is "TURKISH" or "TWISTED" Damascus.

To obtain it, you must try to ensure that the source material - a package with the required number of layers, takes the form of a round or square bar. To do this, you can cut a wide thick plate or cut it lengthwise into strips, the width of which is approximately equal to the thickness. The rods are heated to a light orange color, after which one end is clamped in a vise, and the other is captured by tongs with flat jaws. It twists along the longitudinal axis in several turns, but so that the bar does not burst. The resulting spiral billet is forged into a plate, at a temperature close to welding, with flux to eliminate possible delamination. The product formed from such a plate has a complex pattern in the form of concentric four-beam repeating stars. When working with Damascus, there is great amount pattern options. There are no limits to artistic imagination. Therefore, do not be afraid to experiment and look for new patterns and ways to get them. We will touch on this topic in the section on mosaic Damascus.

Welded steel:

This type of welded steel is characterized by a high carbon content, which brings such Damascus closer in strength and cutting properties to cast damask steel. This carbon content is achieved by using iron powder in forge welding. Cast iron contains up to 6% carbon. It is convenient to use cast iron from steam heating batteries, but its quality is not high. In any case, you should know the composition of the cast iron being used, at least the data on its carbon content. Cast iron is highly brittle, so it is quite easy to split it into small pieces with a sledgehammer. Then crush them on an anvil into a powder, the particles of which should be about the size of a grain of rice. Crush the cast iron carefully so that the particles do not scatter in different directions. For the right amount of welded damask steel, you will need several glasses of crushed cast iron, so be patient. In addition to cast iron, the composition of such steel includes StZ in the form of water pipes and U8-U9 steel from files. File steel must be crushed into pieces about the size of a fingernail. It is easily pricked with a hammer. Using the above formula, calculate the weight parts of all components. Finished steel with all corrections for carbon burnout should contain no more than 1-1.2% carbon. Homogeneous steel with such a composition is very brittle, but due to the heterogeneity of the composite, it is possible to harden it to a higher hardness. Take a 1/2 or 3/4 inch water pipe - this, as I said, is StZ steel. You will need several pieces of pipe about 20 cm long. Using an iron wire ruff, thoroughly clean the inside of the pipe from rust. Weld tightly one end of each piece of pipe. Mix crushed iron and U8 steel fragments in the proportion that you calculated (during the calculation, do not forget to take into account the weight of the pipe). Usually, U8 requires more weight than cast iron. Now fill the pipe segments with the resulting mixture. Compact the iron-steel mixture as thoroughly as possible with a pin of the correct diameter. The stuffed mixture is rammed in the pipe by strong tapping with a hammer on a pin inserted into the pipe like a piston. When the pipe is full, weld the other end of it and weld the handle to it. You can use the pin with which you tamped the mixture, leaving part of it in the pipe and firmly welded. Having stuffed all the pipe sections, take an electric drill and drill 10-20 holes of small diameter in each pipe, evenly placing them on the surface. These holes are needed to exit the air remaining inside and excess molten iron. Ignite the forge and heat the pipe section to the maximum temperature. In this case, a slight burn of the pipe surface is not terrible, since the walls of the pipes are quite thick. Make sure the heat is even. When the pipe section turns white, hammer it with a heavy sledgehammer (the help of a hammerer is desirable) several times from end to beginning and back. Bring the resulting plate to a thickness of 3-4 mm. Forge the rest of the pipe sections in the same way. In the resulting steel, there are still a lot of internal lack of penetration, voids and its composition is very heterogeneous. Therefore, you will have to weld the resulting plates many more times. First weld them together. The resulting plate must be divided in two alternately along and across and welding should be repeated at least 10 times so that the steel becomes even in composition. At this stage, I advise you to gradually begin to master one technique. It will allow avoiding the procedure of cutting the plate into pieces and assembling it into a bag using electric welding. The plate is cut with a chisel along the desired line by 1/2 of the thickness. Then, on the edge of the anvil along the notch line, the plate is bent by 90 degrees. On the plane of the anvil, the fold is brought to an acute angle. After heating, the bent plate is carefully fluxed with borax, especially those surfaces that will be welded. After applying the flux, the forging is heated to welding temperature and forged. In fact, the plate simply folds in half. It must be remembered that it folds alternately - either along or across. Suppose there were five pipe sections that you forged into plates. Having welded them together, we got a 5-pack. After the first fold in half, it will have 10 layers, after the 2nd - 20, after the 3rd - 40, after the 4th - 80, after the 5th - already 160! Thus, after the 10 welds I recommend, you will have several thousand layers. From such a package, it is already possible to form a finished product. I do not recommend using any tricks to complicate the pattern on welded damask steel - it already has its own, unique characteristic chaotic pattern. You can read about the features of hardening welded damask steel and the amazing technology that allows you to achieve the formation of microscopic diamond crystals in the layers of such steel in the article by V. Basov "Damask steel - the life line". Mosaic "Mosaic Damascus" is called steel, in which sections with different types of patterns are welded together. The possibilities for imagination are endless here. I propose to make a damascus, with a "smoke Sutton Hoo" pattern, after the name of a fossil Scandinavian sword. Weld a package consisting of 7 layers of three steels - StZ (gives white m

The modern shade of Damascus steel is different from the original Damascus from the past. Historically, Damascus was considered a crucible. It had a very high carbon content and had a characteristic surface due to its crystal structure.

Damascus steel got its name because the crusaders on their way to the Holy Land acquired new blades from this excellent steel (superior to medieval European steel) in the city of Damascus. However, the modern version of steel has little in common with the past and is more like acid-etched steel.

Damascus, which is shown here, is one of the most modern options. Rope Damascus is perhaps one of the easiest ways to forge Damascus with a complex pattern. Unlike other methods, this method does not require folding and, in fact, has a ready-made shape.

Step 1: Security measures

The most important thing is safety. The manufacturing process involves forging, grinding, and dipping metal in chemicals, so it's important to use the proper safety equipment.

For the forge welding (forging welding) phase, many people who perform any blacksmithing operations know the basic safety equipment: gloves, apron, closed shoes, etc. However, the conditions are not always met. Everyone knows that eye protection is important, but for this kind of work, you need a special kind of protection. The above and the only photo in this section are neodymium glasses. The reason for this is that such glasses are simply necessary for such work.

Experts often neglect this protection, but do not repeat after them. The heat required for forge welding creates radiation that can cause loss of vision over a long period of time. Neodymium glass, however, blocks most of the radiation and keeps your eyes safe. Please note: neodymium glasses are not the same as welding masks or sunglasses. By using them in forge welding, your pupils will expand and your eyes will receive even more radiation.

Step 2: Making blanks

Before you start working with a cable, you need to prepare. Before it gets into the fire, you need to cut off the part you need, as in the first photo. I cut 3 pieces of 30 cm cable with a diameter of 2.5 cm using a cut-off saw. You can cut the cable in any other way, as long as you make sure that the cable you are using is made of steel without the use of plastic and that the steel is not galvanized, as heat reacting with the coating will emit gases that can lead to severe poisoning and even of death. Keep this in mind when looking for a cable.

In addition, if you are trying to make this kind of product for the first time, you may not immediately take such a thick cable, but take, for example, a diameter of 1 - 1.5 cm. You will not get a large and thick product, but you will practice well before more complex projects.

Be sure to tighten the cable ends with steel wire after cutting. This is done so that the weaving does not bloom during the first stages of work. Be sure to use plain steel wire, because other wires that are coated or made from a different material can melt or react with heat and ruin the entire product.

Everyone who makes Damascus steel with their own hands has their own list of steps or secrets that seem to speed up and simplify the process of making. I urge you by trial and error to come to own plan optimal for you personally.

I start by soaking my cold metal in WD40 until it's completely saturated and then dousing it all with regular borax before putting it on the fire. Both borax and WD40 are needed to prevent oxidation, which can make forge welding impossible.

Borax usually doesn't stick to metal when it's hot or wet, and WD40 won't burn in the forge, so I wet the metal with WD40 first and then sprinkle it with borax, which is my best bet.

Step 3: Forge Welding

After placing the product in the oven, heat it to a bright orange or yellow color. Once it reaches the appropriate temperature, let it rest for another minute or so so that all of the metal absorbs the heat and heats up evenly.

Before you can make strikes, you need to twist the cable. It is filled with empty space, which is bad for forge welding. Secure one end of the cable in a vise or similar, and use the other with whatever tool you find appropriate (I used pliers) to twist the sections in the direction the cable is already twisted.

This step may require several reheats. Continue twisting the cable until it stops twisting. Make sure the cable doesn't kink as the whole process will become much more difficult.

Each time, before you put the cable in the fire, you need to sprinkle it with borax until the metal becomes homogeneous. To make sure that the borax sticks to the metal, pour it at the moment when the product is bright red. An important point: when the borax melts, it becomes caustic and can damage the walls of your forge from the inside, so make sure that the bricks in your forge are fireproof.

In addition, hot borax on the skin can be quite painful and can leave scars, so be sure to wear appropriate equipment. The final part of forge welding is the welding itself. When the item is hot, you can start hitting it. The idea is to first knock it out in the shape of a square bar. When you hit, you have to watch the cable turn. Personally, I prefer to start in the middle and work my way to the ends.

Impacts will cause the fibers to separate from each other, so it is necessary to minimize the distance from the first impact to the next. You will understand that the product has become homogeneous by the modified sound that will be emitted upon impact. Initially, it will be more deaf, but as soon as the metal becomes homogeneous, the sound will become bright and resonant. As soon as it becomes homogeneous, you can begin to give the desired shape.

Step 4: Shaping

When planning your project, be sure to keep in mind that the end result will be much smaller than the original cable. Also be aware that cable ends may come loose and not weld. Don't worry, just find where the weld starts and cut off the end. Because of characteristic features cable and the number of gaps and protrusions in it, you will definitely encounter holes and holes, unless you use an air hammer or forge press.

The bottom line is to crunch the cable, see what you're dealing with, and build from there. I decided to make pendants in the form of a drop-shaped shield from my segment. The finer the grit you use in the final sanding, the better the pattern will show up. Since I wanted to achieve a very deep etch, I didn't need to sand too smooth. Enough sandpaper 120 grit before etching.

Step 5: Final Stage and Protection

Damascus steel should look like one solid piece of metal. To get a drawing, you need to pickle the steel with acid. There are several uses for acids, but I personally use ferric chloride. If you want to get a very superficial etch, such as an image on the surface, you only need to dip the metal in acid for about 20 minutes.

I wanted to get a very deep etch that you could feel, so I submerged my workpiece for 7 hours. Once you have finished pickling, you must clean the metal and neutralize the acid. One of the easiest ways to do this is to simply spray glass cleaner on the engraved piece after it has been rinsed with water. Don't forget to wear gloves and eye protection for all of this. If you want to add some color to the item like in the last two photos, just heat it up a little after etching until the desired color is achieved.

Once the etching is done, the last step is to protect the metal. Steel is strong, but, unfortunately, tends to rust. If the piece you are using needs to be practical, like a knife, you can apply wax to its surface.

If the piece is more decorative, you can apply a clear coat. It all depends on preference. Personally, I decided to try nail polish. I usually use clear polyurethane, but this time I decided to try something new. After the part is varnished, all that's left is to enjoy the look of it.

Step 6: One last moment

The piece I made does not require any hardening or heat treatment because it is a decorative item. If you decide to make a blade out of cable, you need to keep in mind that when hardened, the steel tends to deform in the direction of the twisting of the cable. If you want a practical material, make it thicker, otherwise you might start with a knife and end up with a corkscrew.

Step 7: Addition

Here are some more link pendants. To get a very deep etch, they were all etched for almost 24 hours. They were all heated to different temperatures to develop different colors. In the end they were coated with polyurethane to prevent rust.

Do-it-yourself Damascus steel knife. Do-it-yourself Damascus steel blade. Making Damascus steel at home. Making a knife from Damascus steel. Now we will talk about creating with your own hands a small, forged, and not carved, knife with the help of a homemade forge, anvil, hammer and determination. I do not pretend to be a professional, and this, of course, is not the only way to get welded Damascus, this is a story about how I managed to make it.

Step 1: Materials and Tools
- steel plates of two or more grades (preferably high carbon content) that will contrast with each other, I took high carbon 1095 steel and 15n20 steel, with a small nickel content, which will add brightness and contrast after etching
- flux (borax, which can be purchased at a hardware store)
- a piece of reinforcement, a long bar (will be welded to the workpiece as a handle)
- wood of your choice for the knife handle
- epoxy resin(hardening in 5 minutes is the most)
- brass rivets
- composition for wood processing of the handle, I used linseed oil
- oil for hardening metal (vegetable)
- ferric chloride
- an anvil (preferably a real steel anvil, although in the absence of one, some other solid objects will do: a piece of rail, a sledgehammer, a large metal blank, an old mooring bollard, or just a large strong, hard and even surface. Remember how it all started with stone strikes on a large stone)
- hammer (I used 1.3kg weight, with a transverse striker)
- ticks
- welding (optional, but desirable for welding the plates together and welding the handle, if you do not have welding, you can wrap the plates tightly with wire)
- forge forge (capable of heating the workpiece to the temperatures required for forging, which is very important for high-quality fusion of plates with each other, more on this later)
- belt sander or file with a mountain of patience
- oven or other method of hardening
- drill or drilling machine
- vice (a very useful thing)

Step 2: Assembly of the workpiece

Steel plates are cut to the desired size, mine, for example, is 7.6x1.2cm; at the same time, the larger the workpiece, the more difficult it is to form it with a hammer. Before welding them into a stack, the plates are cleaned from all sides of rust and scale. Next, the plates are stacked in a pile, alternating steel grades, so my workpiece consisted of 7 plates, three of which are 15n20, and four are 1095.

Aligned with respect to each other, the plates are seized by welding (do not pay much attention to my seam), and then a handle is welded to the stack to make it easier to operate with the workpiece during forging. There is nothing wrong, especially after the stack of plates has been welded, to use only tongs. I forged mine anyway.

Step 3: First stack forging

A little about my forge: it was made with my own hands from an empty (I bought a new one on purpose) gas cylinder, lined inside with a 5 cm layer of kaolin wool and refractory cement. It is heated with a Ron-Reil type burner, about which there are many good articles. The forge itself is not particularly large and heats up to the desired temperature without any problems.

So, the workpiece from the plates is heated to a cherry-red color, the heat for this is not very strong. The heated homemade workpiece is sprinkled with borax, which immediately begins to melt and must be allowed to seep between the plates. This will remove scale and prevent oxidation by preventing oxygen from contacting the metal. This action will ensure the purity of the metal of the workpiece.

Then the workpiece is heated again in the hearth and the procedure is repeated a couple more times, not forgetting to clean the scale if necessary. And after that, the workpiece is heated to the forging temperature, how much I can’t say for sure, but I think it’s somewhere in the region of 1260-1315 degrees Celsius. At this temperature, the workpiece will have a very bright yellow-orange color, about the same as moderate daylight.

In order not to waste time, make sure that the anvil and hammer are at hand and there is enough free working space.

Then the workpiece is quickly placed on the anvil and with light, soft blows, evenly over the entire area, the plates begin to be forged together. Next, the workpiece is again placed in the hearth and heated to forging temperature, and then forged with medium-strength blows.

And after that, the workpiece is pulled out so that it can be bent.

Step 4: Folding the workpiece

It's time to increase the number of layers in the workpiece. To do this, the workpiece is forged to a length twice the original, but it is important to stretch it evenly, and not just stretch it. In the middle of the stretched workpiece on a cut, with a chisel or other suitable method, a transverse recess is made 3/4 or 4/5 in thickness, along which the workpiece is then folded in half at the edge of the anvil, turned over and forged along the entire length, while making sure that the halves are not moved relative to each other along the side edges.

Then the heating/forging process from the previous step is repeated: flux, heating, cooling, heating, forging, horn. The procedure for increasing the number of layers is repeated until the desired number of these layers, so I folded it 4 times and got 112 layers. (If you want more layers, please, the pattern will then be smaller. The formula for calculating the layers is: the initial number * 2 to the power of the number of folds, that is, 7 * 2^4 = 112).

Next, the homemade blank, heated to the forging temperature, is placed in the groove of the anvil, twisted well, and then it is again given a rectangular shape. But before twisting, the billet is punched at the corners so that its shape becomes more rounded, because when twisting and back forging into a rectangular billet, inclusions and impurities from the resulting folds can form if the billet temperature is less than forging.

After that, the workpiece is again forged (I repeated it several times), and cooled, and to make sure that the forging was uniform, I cleaned one of the ends of the workpiece. During the forging itself, especially at the first stage, it is important to keep the temperature of the workpiece high and be careful, otherwise you can tear off the layers from each other (in other words, this is called delamination, which is not good at all).

Step 5: Model and Rough Profile Formation

Now you need to imagine the profile of the future knife and roughly forge it from the workpiece. The more accurately you can forge the profile and bevel, the less hassle with grinding (on a machine or file). There are many articles on this subject by more experienced blacksmiths, so I won't go into too much detail. The bottom line is that the workpiece behaves approximately like plasticine, when it is heated, it is necessary to punch it in the right direction.

Step 6: Sanding the Profile

Fine shaping of the profile is carried out with a grinder and a file. Stock up on tea, because most likely it will take a lot of time, unless of course you have a grinding machine.

Step 7: Sanding, sanding, sanding...and reflecting on the meaning of life

Step 8: Finished Profile

After the profile of the craft is formed, it still needs to be finalized with a file with a finer grain, I used the 400s. The edge of the blade is sharpened almost, but not completely, it is necessary to leave it slightly unsharpened so that the edge material does not deform during hardening. After that, holes for riveting are drilled in the knife handle and wooden dies are prepared for this handle.

Step 9: Exciting Moment

hardening.
She will either "create" your blade or destroy it. It is important to concentrate and be careful, otherwise you can deform and destroy the blade. The method I used is not the most thorough tempering method, but it was the only one available to me with the tools I had, and the oil was the best I could get.

Before hardening, the blade must be normalized. This will relieve stresses built up during forging and twisting and reduce the chance of warping during quenching. This normalization is done by heating the blade above its critical temperature (when it is no longer magnetized, so it is useful to have a magnet handy) and cooling in air. The process is repeated three to five times, so I did it 5 times. In addition, this action will help you train to remove the blade from the forge, because no hitches are allowed during hardening. This action is shown in the photo with my dangling knife. And this part is also cool in that during cooling, oxidation occurs, which begins to reveal the pattern of steel.

Hardening: the blade is again heated above the critical temperature, and then quickly removed and placed, first of all with the point, in a warm vegetable oil(for steel grades like mine). To heat the oil itself, you can simply heat something metal and throw it into a container of oil, for example, I used a crutch for sleepers. Mix the oil, so you get a more even hardening. If your steel is high carbon then don't use water to harden it, it will only ruin the blade because the water cools too fast which is not suitable for high carbon steel.

The craft should now be treated like glass, because if the blade has been tempered correctly, it is so fragile that it can break if dropped.

After that, it's time for vacation.

Step 10: Metal tempering
Tempering is the process of hardening a blade to increase its life and strength. This is achieved by heating the blade at a certain controlled temperature. I spent the vacation of my craft in the oven for an hour at a temperature of 205 degrees Celsius. “Bake” until the display shows “ready”.

Step 11: Etching

I apologize in advance for the lack of photos of this and the next steps, but the process is quite simple. Ferric chloride is prepared according to the instructions attached to it, and then the blade is aged in it, as much as indicated in the same instructions. In my case, this is 3 parts water to 1 part ferric chloride, and aging for 3-5 minutes. The process is really exciting, and its result looks like a Batman knife.

Step 12: Handle and Sharpening

Again, there are many techniques and instructions on how to make a knife handle and sharpen it, so I'll skip the details. Let me just say that for my craft I chose cherry dies, which I glued to the knife handle with epoxy glue and secured with two brass rivets. Sanded it with 400 grit and coated it with linseed oil.

For sharpening, I do not use any special, labor-intensive method, but mostly use an ordinary grindstone.

Step 13: Time to give yourself a pat on the back, the knife is ready...

This is my finished knife, about 15cm long. People might think this is pretty funny, but I have no idea how this fancy pattern came about. Now we will talk about creating with your own hands a small, forged, and not carved, knife with the help of a homemade forge, anvil, hammer and determination. I do not pretend to be a professional, and this, of course, is not the only way getting welded Damascus, this is the story of how I managed to make it.

Damascus steel today is called welded Damascus, obtained from welded metal plates of various steels, subsequently forged and twisted. It's like sticking plasticine of different colors together and twisting it to make a wavy pattern. After forging, such a workpiece is subjected to etching, in which dissimilar metals of the workpiece are corroded unevenly, thereby forming a beautiful contrast. The original Damascus steel is obtained in a different, very specific way (although it looks similar to modern Damascus), and few people know how to create it, this fact has created Damascus's reputation as a metal supposedly endowed with magical powers. And the reason for this "power", similar to that of samurai swords, is a process that allows you to get a more uniform, and therefore with necessary qualities, steel, which cannot be achieved by other methods, and makes it possible to include low-quality and high / low carbon steel in the composition of the workpiece. Which gives a much better quality blade.

To do this, you can independently fold a small stone stove. The whole procedure will not take much time, and it will be possible to use such a furnace for many years, especially if the process of making Damascus steel and blades from it will lure you.

prepare iron ore and normal. Take the stone forge. Mix iron ore and charcoal, place the materials in a stone furnace and heat to a temperature of at least 1100-1200 degrees. with such heating, it will be released from oxygen and restored, and as a result of reaction with charcoal, a spongy homogeneous mass will be formed.

Remove from oven and let cool. Squeeze out all impurities from the obtained sponge iron by forging. As a result of the actions taken, you should get a small piece of wrought iron, the carbon in which is very low. Prepare an earthenware container in which to heat the resulting pieces of iron, heating in a closed clay crucible is an excellent option.

Cool the crucible, this should be done gradually, slowly, simply by leaving it in the cooled furnace for an indefinite time. Remove the resulting ingot.

Make a blade from the obtained material (ingot). To do this, heat the ingot to a temperature of at least 650 degrees (it will become plastic) and forge, after which, having reached the desired result, quickly cool the resulting blade in water or brine in order to harden it.