09.05.2020

My books. Space Refugees and Soviet Childhood: Guide to the Festival "Contemporary Art in a Traditional Museum"


Gosha came to our family when he was already 16.5 years old. He spent his entire previous life in an orphanage, where he got from the orphanage, and there he ended up immediately after the maternity hospital. Gosha is now 19 years old. He is studying at a teacher training college and is rethinking a lot from his early life experiences. The period has come when it is important for him to analyze and remember. We talk a lot about his past. Gradually, with my help, Gosha's memories are being formed into a book, which will be published in November 2018.

The editors of Vesti.Medicina publishes a fragment of the book"My name is Gosha", writtenDiana Mashkova -writer, journalist, founder of the ABC of the Foster Family Club of the Arithmetic of Good Foundation.

The very first moment in my life I remember this. I go to the group: I am three years old and I was transferred from the Baby House to the preschool department of the Orphanage. They brought and told the teachers: “Meet Grisha!”. As a result, in the preschool department, I was Grisha for all four years. Someone messed up something in the notes, and so until the middle of the first grade I was Grigory. Then, already at school, they looked in the papers O! It's George, not Gregory. And they say to me: “so, stop, you are not Grisha, you are not Grigory, but Georgy. So gosh. Remember?" Yes, no problem at all. So I became Gosha again.

In the group where they brought me then, there were only educators, and there were no children yet, I was the first. And now I remember, they fed me, put me to bed, and after a quiet hour I wake up, open my eyes - oops, another one is lying. It was Timik, he later became my best friend. Where he came from, I don't know. We did not talk about it, even the question of this did not arise.

Actually, we didn't know anything about ourselves. I personally, in principle, did not understand what relatives, parents are. Where did I come from? What kind of mother is that? Many children at the age of three or four begin to ask how children are born. They explain to them that the mother's stomach. But I personally do not remember asking anyone about this and being answered one way or another. I had no idea that children should have mothers. I was raised by teachers.

Only in the fourth grade did I find out that I had parents. That is about eleven years old. In our Orphanage the commission arrived. The teachers pulled out our portfolios from the archives, put them on the edge of the table. And we are like: “Oh, what are these folders, what do they write about us there?”. The adults went out somewhere, and we let's read all this. That's how I learned about my mother and father. My mother, it turns out, was called Vera Evgenievna. And the father - Vasily Georgievich. I was even delighted then - I'm Georgy Vasilyevich. Like the opposite. I also saw my father's death certificate, but to be honest, I didn't really understand what it meant. Only at the age of thirteen did we start talking about our parents, about where we came from. We already lived in the senior building, I studied, I think, in the seventh grade. And a teacher from another orphanage came to work with us. And she opened my eyes to some things.

“Actually, I shouldn’t tell you this,” she switched to a whisper, “because the information is classified.

-Yes?

“You can't complicate the situation. But I will say what is safe.

- Lan.

-Your dad, Gosha, died before your birthday.

- Like this?

-So like this. In about three months.

“Wow,” I froze, the first time I heard about it from her.

“But your mother is still alive.

In response, I kept silent. I didn’t want to ask about anything - if she’s alive, then she doesn’t need me. Otherwise, she would have come already, in thirteen years.

When you were born, she was 39 years old.

“Ahh,” I feigned indifference, “that means she’s already old now.”

-Why? - the teacher was indignant, - only fifty-two years.

- Well, lan, alive, and well.

And I didn't ask any more questions. Before that, my family was a friend Timik. And other friends are guys from our group. Adults have always been, as it were, apart, standing aside.

By the way, I never even saw the very paper that started it all - my mother's rejection of me. I think it said "I refuse because I can not support." Or something like that. Otherwise, how did it happen that she could just take and throw me out? Either she was still an alcoholic, a drug addict, and so on - what is attributed to all parents of orphanage children. Our teachers have always told us that. When they scolded us, it turned out about the same.

"Ahhh, so you're tired of us?" - my "favorite" teacher in the junior building began to get inflamed out of the blue, as soon as I mumbled "you have no right, you're already tired!".

– What is it?

“Say that to your mother who left you!” Now he wanders around the yards, smokes, drinks, injects. drug addict!

- How do you know? - I will not say that I somehow reacted violently. If I don't know my own mother, how can a teacher know anything about her? He makes up all sorts of nonsense.

- They are all like that! Alcoholics and drug addicts. Go, go to your mom! She won't bore you. But if you're here, then you're tired of her!

And I’m like, “Pfft. Screamed? Calmed down? Well done!

By the way, I never got angry, and I didn’t want to answer anything so offensive. From childhood he was kind. I never even thought badly about my mother, it was not in my thoughts that she drank or injected. I thought only that she could not support me.

But my other friend, Nekit, yes, he always answered the teachers in a fit of anger. Mom, of course.

You, with ..., do not know my parents, he yelled and you are bringing some kind of blizzard here!

Well, the “favorite” teacher, let's just grab the phone like. Nekit yelled at her and climbed under the table - out of harm's way. And she started calling, like in a psychiatric hospital. But really just his son. We only realized it later.

But basically everything was simpler - she went to the elders. That's what we called the older children in the orphanage. And sent them to us for educational purposes. So that they would like to talk, hold preventive conversations. Starshaki honestly tried with words, but got tired of such a moral burden too quickly. And moved on to the physical. They beat them hard. Or thrown like skittles from one to another. Such fun. We were small, in the fifth grade. And they are already huge - in the ninth, tenth, eleventh.

By the way, not only with educators, but also with friends, we did not discuss the topic of parents. There was no such "and you would like to ...". No. We lived here and now. The past was not touched at all. The future, however, too. Probably, they dreamed of something, from the category of “what do I want to become?”. But that's all. How and what will happen, we just do not know. They sat, roughly speaking, in their cell. And they didn't shine.

And if you go in order, from the very birth, then I don’t remember myself at all as a child. How he sat in the crib, spoke the first words, took the first steps, something else - that’s not left in my memory. And there are no photos, so now I will never know.

Dear Colleagues!

Especially for the readers of the CHILDHOOD-GUIDE website, I wrote two e-books:

1. "Methodological tips on GEF DO: a book for educators."
2. "Methodological tips on the Federal State Educational Standard for DO: a book for music leaders."

"Methodological Tips" guidelines for teachers of preschool educational institutions (including for senior educators), which are compiled in the form of questions and detailed answers to them. All material is developed in accordance with the requirements and provisions of the Federal State Educational Standard.
"Methodological hints" do not contain anything superfluous, only specific and necessary information for work. This material can be taken as a basis for writing plans self-analysis for certification, speeches on the topic of self-education, speeches at the teachers' council or methodical association, you can develop a presentation and other methodological documents.

How to make the most of the texts from these books for your work, I explained in this article .

First book - "Methodological tips on GEF DO: a book for educators"

What you will learn from the 100 pages of the book:

about current trends and features of the organization of the educational process in accordance with the Federal State Educational Standard(various ways of integration, modern forms interaction of a teacher with children, characteristics of children's cultural practices by types, tasks and content);
- what needs to be done to develop important personal qualities preschoolers (independence, emotionality, creativity, cognitive activity), to which GEF DO draws Special attention;
- how to develop
- on what algorithm
- About, what needs to be done about self-education

You'll get:

– practical materials on the organization of the educational process and in accordance with GEF DO;
- practical materials on various areas of development of preschoolers (socialization of the individual, interaction with peers, perception of works of art, development of dialogic speech, development of coherent speech) based on specific modern technologies with authors;

To see content

Book price: 230 rubles

[email protected] I will explain everything and will definitely help.

Second book - "Methodological tips on GEF DO:book for music directors

What you will learn from 101 pages of the book:

about current trends and features of the organization of the educational process for musical development preschoolers in accordance with the Federal State Educational Standard of DO (various methods of integration, modern forms of interaction between a music director and children, characteristics of children's musical cultural practices by type, task and content);
about specific development models pupils in the main types of musical activity (musical perception, singing, musical-rhythmic and creative activity, instrumental music making);
- about what needs to be done to develop important personal qualities of preschoolers in musical activity(independence, emotionality, cognitive activity), to which GEF DO pays special attention;
- how it happens personality socialization preschooler and carried out interaction with peers in musical activities;
- how to develop program of his professional development For inter-certification period;
- on what algorithm plan activities on the topic of self-education;
- that needs to be done on the topic of self-education, considering modern approaches and requirements in this direction.

You'll get:

— practical materials for organization of the educational process for musical development preschoolers in accordance with GEF DO;
- practical materials for the development of preschoolers musical perception(thematic and perspective plan, a card file of didactic games, manuals and creative tasks). The choice of these particular materials is not accidental, since the main task of the musical development of preschoolers in accordance with the Federal State Educational Standard is the development of value-semantic musical perception;
— practical materials on development models pupils in the main types of musical activity. The tasks, content, organizational forms, modern methods, psychological and pedagogical conditions and the expected result for each of these types of musical activity;
– practical materials on the basis of which you will develop your own methodological documentation, presentations, reports, texts of speeches, introspection educational activities.

To see content books, left click on the image.

Book price: 230 rubles

Dear Colleagues! If you do not know how to pay for an order, or have never used this form of payment, or could not receive the book after payment, then write to the site's e-mail: [email protected] I will explain everything and will definitely help.

Space Refugees and Soviet Childhood: Guide to the Festival "Contemporary Art in a Traditional Museum"

For a whole month, traditional museum repositories will turn into places where contemporary art will be shown. Installations with books, a greenhouse in a museum, graffiti on glass, video footage of the Romanian Revolution - this and much more in our guide to the festival.

TICKETS

Ticket price in advance sale until September 20 - 250 rubles, from September 21 and during the festival - 300 rubles. The ticket is valid for a single entry to each of the 8 participating museums. You can see the exhibition projects of the festival during the opening hours of the museums. Children under 7 accompanied by an adult stay free of charge.

Tickets for the festival can be purchased at the city ticket offices of the kassir.ru, biletsofit.ru and muzbilet.ru systems, as well as ordered on the websites of ticket operators.

More information about the festival program: proartefestival.ru


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Museum of Freud's Dreams , State Museum of the History of St. Petersburg (Peter and Paul Fortress) , State Museum of Political History of Russia (Kshesinskaya's mansion) , Museum of the History of Photography , S.M. Kirov, Museum of the St. Petersburg Avant-Garde (M.V. Matyushin House), F.I. Chaliapin Museum-Apartment, Elizarovs Museum-Apartment, V.P. Glushko, 14th International Festival "Contemporary Art in a Traditional Museum"
Recommended for visiting St. Petersburg2
Amusement Park Gorilla Park

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Chernobyl, Pripyat, nowhere else ... Shigapov Artur

Route "The Extinct Streets of My Childhood" Guide - Alexander Sirota

Route "The Extinct Streets of My Childhood"

Guide - Alexander Sirota

The area near the recreation center "Energetik" - st. Kurchatov - "Rainbow" store - Lenina avenue (courtyards) - Enthusiasts avenue - "Svetlyachok" store - Druzhby Narodov avenue - medical unit 126 - Beryozka store - school number 1 - pier - st. Kurchatov - hotel "Polesye" - recreation center "Energetik" - children's park - sixteen-story building (Lazarev St., 1) - bucket.

Guide - Alexander Sirota

Signatures for Pripyat objects:

1. Palace of Culture "Energetik"

2. Shop "Rainbow"

3. Kindergarten "Sun"

4. Kindergarten "Ivushka"

6. Dry cleaning 10

7. Dining room

8. Shop "Firefly"

9. Bus station

10. Shop "Books"

11. Store "Department Store"

12. Shop "Birch"

13. Polyclinic

14. School No. 1

15. Greenhouse

16. Pier

17. Berthing complex

18. Cafe "Pripyat"

19. Cinema "Prometheus"

20. Music school

22. City Committee

23. Hotel "Polesie"

24. Restaurant

25. Gym

26. Amusement park

28. Hostel No. 18

31. Shopping center

32. Shop "Sunrise"

33. Kindergarten "Golden Key"

34. Boarding the bus

35. Greenhouse

36. House of Pioneers

37. Kindergarten

38. School number 5

39. Cafe Pirozhkovaya

40. Tribune

41. Sports core

42. Restroom

43. Economic building

44. House of pre-conscripts

45. Cafe "Olympia"

46. ​​Hostel 19

47. Hostel 16

48. Hostel 15

49. Kindergarten-nursery

50. Nursery complex

51. 9-storey building

52. 9-storey building

53. 9-storey building

54. Shop "Children's World"

55. Store

56. Canteen

57. Pharmacy

58. Grocery store

59. Kindergarten

60. Kindergarten

61. School No. 4

62. Sewer pumping station

63. Kindergarten

64. Kindergarten-nursery

65. Kindergarten "Star"

66. Shop

67. Swimming pool

68. Cooking

69. Workshops

70. School number 3

72. Kindergarten "Teremok"

73. Children's polyclinic

74. Public toilet

75. Mixed Goods Store

76. PKRO building

77. Fecal pump house

78. Sports goods

79. Radio plant "Jupiter"

81. Paid outdoor parking

82. Garages

83. Fire Department

84. Police

85. Base UZHKH

86. Pumping station, 2 lifts

87. Point of collection of glass containers

88. Shop "Vegetables"

89. Fluoridation station

90. Iron removal station

91. Kindergarten "Bear Cub 5"

92. Kindergarten "Friendship"

93. Factory-kitchen

94. Stadium

95. Checkpoint

96. Shop "Kolosok"

97. Shop "Meat. Fish. Vegetables"

98. Deli

99. Kindergarten "Golden Cockerel"

100. Shop "Youth"

101. School number 2

102. Shop "Furniture"

103. Wine and vodka shop

104. Household goods store

105. Cooperative garages

106. Dance floor

108. Sanitary and epidemiological station

110. Gym

111. Avangard sports complex

112. Chess Club

113. Fuel oil farm

114. Stadium

115. Shop "Vegetables"

116. Shop

119. Maintenance point

121. Laundry

123. Locksmith workshops

124. Maternity ward

125. Infectious department

126. Neurological department

127. Canteen

128. Dairy kitchen

129. Rescue station

131. Hotel "Swallow"

132. Dispensary

133. Checkpoint with auto scales

134. Base ORSA

137. Vegetable storage

138. Pickling shop

139. Bakery

Pripyat, beginning

Pripyat, everything is already built

Not that I was lucky to be in this group. I knew in advance that I wanted to see Pripyat through the eyes of one of the young tomboys, from whom the older guys demand money - as much as three rubles - for a lost soccer ball. It was precisely such a difficult childhood problem that faced the young third-grader Sasha Sirota on April 26, 1986.

This fact is well known to me. What happened next, I can only guess.

Maybe he left the Energetik Palace of Culture, where his mother worked as the head of the literary association, to the central square and went towards the Raduga store, sadly reflecting on the sudden twists of fate. Yesterday everything was fine, and tomorrow everything would have been a bunch, if he and his friend had not taken this ill-fated ball and kicked it on the roof of the heating station. I only have two kopecks of money in my pocket, and my mother only dismisses all cautious requests - the May holidays are on the nose, and the refrigerator is bursting with food, I had to spend money. The boy walks past the Rainbow, where fishermen are stocking up on gear for the upcoming May Day fishing. Here is a man from a neighboring entrance shooting a two-kopeck coin at a pay phone - this means calling with homies and cultural gatherings for half a liter at the pier. The obese aunt meticulously picks at the pieces of furniture put up for sale in the hall, and asks a familiar merchandiser when they will finally “throw out” imported TV cabinets.

View of the central square

Now I'm on the same route. The store "Rainbow" really resembles a rainbow - it "shines" with all its two hundred microroentgens, which was caught by the dosimetrist of our group. This is followed by the entrance to the residential courtyard along Lenin Avenue.

Shop "Rainbow"

He deliberately did not take the shortest route - he was just very worried about the ball, and he didn’t want to catch the eye of these damn boys. Everything was as usual, only for some reason a police car was standing on the corner, and a watering machine was pouring water over the roadway. Why are they sutra? Grandmothers sat on benches in the yard and chatted with might and main. “Accident… the sick are being taken… firefighters” flies to the ear. Wow, did two cars collide and catch fire?! That's the news! This is probably one of those that rush around the city in the morning with Kyiv numbers as undermined ... Black thoughts about the ball disappear from the head faster than the spring sagebrush wind. Today it blows from the nuclear power plant...

On the dosimeter 200 microR/h

The yard is overgrown with trees and shrubs so that you can hardly see the buildings through the green wall. The benches where the city gossips once sat have long since rotted and disappeared into the thickets. Sometimes the thicket parted and gave the look of children's fungi with sandboxes, swings and other Soviet surroundings. Former asphalt paths have long been covered with a layer of turf, in which traces of wild boars are visible. In winter, they are replaced by wolf prints in the snow.

The windows in the houses are broken, the entrances have collapsed halfway, and in some places have grown into the ground.

Making my way through the thickets, I freeze in my tracks: in front of me is an overgrown kindergarten, similar to the one I attended in my snotty preschool days. It is the traces of children's stay that the stalker's eye is always looking for. A toy forgotten in a hurry cuts to the heart much more than the building of an abandoned factory - and this means that in a depopulated city we are still people.

Children's playground

Ah as same all-??? not want to return in yard! These bastards probably make a mistake near the entrance and play "land" or some other game with a folding knife. Well, where, where will I get them the ball, and even more money?! Sasha jumps over a low fence kindergarten, empty on Saturday, and sits on a bench in the gazebo. The heady aroma of flowers from a loosened flower bed for a second distracts from sad thoughts. Here it is, the solution! Need a ladder, long, long, right? Who has them? Of course, the firemen (today someone remembered them on the street)! The father can ask, but at least Uncle Vitya Kibenok, he will not refuse for sure! The enlightened boy jumps back over the fence and confidently heads towards the five-story building on Lenin Avenue. Families of young Pripyat residents live in its tiny apartments, waiting for “normal” housing, by Atomograd standards.

Empty eye sockets of Pripyat

Entrance of the house on Lenin Ave.

Kindergarten on Lenin Ave.

Yard on Lenin Ave.

At home, confidence is replaced by confusion. No boys, and adults are running wildly somewhere. Grandmas at the entrance are dumbfounded by the news: “Accident at the station! The roof was on fire! The firefighters were taken to the medical unit ... "Here's the ladder for you! I jumped out onto the street of Friendship of Peoples - there in a straight line to the 126th medical unit it takes five minutes to walk - and they wash it with some kind of solution. A tray with 15 kopecks of Potato cakes was carried out from the Firefly store to the street, and the saleswoman was chatting animatedly with some aunt and repeating every now and then: “They need a lot of milk, a lot.” Two hryvnia is sent to its destination, and "Potato" - to the children's stomach.

Shop "Firefly"

Our group, stretched across the yard, finally gathers at the entrance to the entrance to the next "khrushchev" on Lenin Avenue. “Now we will go inside,” explains Alexander Sirota. - This is my childhood home. This is where I lived before the evacuation.”

In a hurry to get away

Sad sight inside. The apartments are empty. The windows are broken. In the corridors - only rusty mailboxes. Much later than the evacuation, when the townspeople took the most necessary things, and the looters the most valuable, almost all the furniture and other household items were thrown out of the windows by deactivators and sent to burial grounds. Many residents themselves broke and spoiled their property so as not to leave dashing people.

Lists of defunct tenants

We go into a tiny "small family" - Alexander lived here with his mother exactly until April 27, 1986. He has been here dozens of times, already being an adult man, but still cannot speak in an even voice and is strenuously hiding his excitement. On the windowsill - withered flowers and small money different countries. Sometimes they disappear, which means that lovers of other people's goods are still wandering around the city.

Ordinary Pripyat apartment

Almost nowhere in the houses there were no heating batteries left. Everything that is connected with metal is screwed and torn out. After the tightening of the access regime, representatives of many companies associated with recycling are working in the city. Utilize history, a living monument-warning. Amazing prudence in a country where government billions disappear without a trace ...

Residents threw away furniture...

In the apartment of A. Sirota

In the basement of the house there is a campaign room. This is a real find for lovers of Soviet retro! Postcards, posters, magazines - everything is in a pristine mess. Fans of staged photographs have not yet reached here, and marauders have nothing to do.

“Have you tried to find the same ball? - beginner stalkers are interested. - He was supposed to stay forever on the roof of the heat station. This is the best memory of childhood! “Of course we were looking for him. The next day, an evacuation was announced, and everyone forgot about the ball. He should have been there. But he's not there. The city took this secret with it forever.”

Winding through the yards, we cross the Druzhby Narodiv Avenue and exit to the Enthusiasts Avenue. These are urban “backyards”, there are no more houses behind the roadway, and the station is perfectly visible from the windows. This location has caused severe pollution, and the background here is noticeably different from the "average for the hospital" - about 500 μR / h on the pavement near the wire fence. In the completely plundered premises of the Svetlyachok store, the old Soviet stalls miraculously survived, having never seen an abundance of products. "Firefly" "glows" with all the colors of the radioactive rainbow - on the dosimeter, the readings creep even higher. This is the most "illuminated" store in the city and another prophetic name.

Bottle of our childhood

Charter of exemplary hostel

We leave on the former prospect of Friendship of peoples. The peoples have not been friends for a long time, sometimes arranging all sorts of dairy, gas, wine and other "wars", and the avenue has turned into an overgrown alley. Are we talking about prophecies, of which there have already been many? Birch trees now grow in the Beryozka store. In what apocalyptic dream could the author of the title imagine such a plot twist? From here it is already very close to the infamous 126th medical unit.

Former Friendship of Peoples Ave.

bygone era

What's going on around here?! People from all sides gather at the hospital building. Some aunts with crazy faces take iron 3-liter cans of milk out of Beryozka and, pouring it over the asphalt, rush to the medical unit. The area in front of the entrance is crowded with people; a lot of police and some other men in uniform. Two months ago, Sasha had a tooth pulled out here, and it was very painful. Since then, he dislikes this building. "Let me go to him!" - a young girl starts crying, and the boy becomes somehow anxious in his soul. He'd never seen adults get killed like that unless they drank heavily. “What are you, a fool, the dosimeter goes off scale on them, all the neighbors had to be relocated!” These words are completely incomprehensible. Some more aunts break into the hospital, they are driven back by soldiers. These are wonderful, what kind of normal person wants to go there himself ?! The crowd, meanwhile, is arriving, already a whole sea of ​​people. Someone appeared in the window, waving his arms ... yes, this is Uncle Vitya Kibenok! He was there on fire, probably extinguished the roof and got burned. When I grow up, I will also become a firefighter. The station will catch fire, we will put it out, and they will bring me here too, and all the people will come running to see the hero. And mom will tell them - here, this is my son, there, in the window, waving his hand.

Dreams of future glory suddenly stopped at the most interesting place. The familiar faces of extortionists appeared in the crowd, and the juvenile debtor hurried to hide in the courtyard of his school, which stands nearby. Battles have already flared up on the football ground, but it’s impossible to ask for one of the teams: if these bastards are taken by surprise, you won’t turn away. Sasha jumped out onto Naberezhnaya Street and hid in the bushes not far from the pier.

“Please do not approach the medical unit through the lawn, there are 600 mR/hour,” warns zealous sightseers, “stick to the asphalt, it is half as much there.” At the entrance, one of the staged photographers carefully carried out a gynecological chair. So it is necessary to give tragedy to the pictures sold in various magazines and photobanks. The building is in terrible disrepair. I have an unbearable desire to see the premises of the 3rd floor, where the first people affected by radiation were brought, but we limit ourselves to the lobby. Traveling through the building becomes more and more dangerous every year, and I perfectly understand the organizers who are afraid of their sometimes crazy clients. If some manage to wallow on the infected moss and eat fallen apples, then how to keep track of everyone in the emergency building? Here for the first time I come across extraneous inscriptions: some idiot expressed himself on a hospital board. I understand the motives of marauders who cut batteries and wires, but what drives the marauders of the spirit? Arranging picturesquely abandoned dolls for the sake of a spectacular shot or writing the name of your Internet site in Pripyat on the wall is equal to pogrom of graves in a cemetery.

sinister trumpet

Fenced city (500 microR/h)

Entrance to MSCH-126

We cross Druzhby Narodov Avenue and again dive into the yards for a date with school No. 1 and the Combination of Consumer Services (KBO).

Pripyat desolation

In the spacious hall of the school - a paradise for photographers. Gas masks, textbooks, class magazines with marks are scattered on the floor. An inflamed fantasy should immediately draw children running, putting on rubber “muzzles” and throwing them on the floor in desperation. In fact, gas masks were pulled out and laid out much later by all the same "screenwriters of the apocalypse." But stands and posters, known from childhood to every Soviet schoolchild, are the real ones. I look into the magazine, I rejoice at the fives in the “phys-re” of Sementyevsky Vitya and I am upset by the triples of Yulia Galkina. Probably, Yulia was a fragile girl, and Vitek was a strong, swirling lad, a prankster, but I want to believe that both of them had a life. Without them, this school was orphaned, and its corner completely collapsed. The football field has long been a knee-deep grass field, but the gates remain. Gateway to the past?

"Sign up for an appointment!"

Wardrobe MSCH-126

Dangerous Pripyat apples

hello from the past

School on perpetual vacation

At the pier, only talk about the accident at the station. Sashka decided to spend the last triplet to good use and went to the soda machine. Two men who have just left the Pripyat cafe are arguing with each other in an undertone with fervor.

- I'm telling you - you need to get out of the city, and as quickly as possible. All the insides of the reactor are out, do you even understand that we all f ... c ?! While they are thinking there, your Nastya will get so many x-rays that she will have enough for the rest of her life! Today, a “dose” acquaintance said that Energetik had 20 milliroentgens, and this is just the beginning. Vali, and take your relatives with you until they die!

school booth

"Citizens of the USSR have the right" ...

- Bryukhanov and Malomuzh said that everything is under control, why are you twitching?

- They have, ... la, only service "Volgas" under control and special sanatoriums for treatment, servants of the people gr ... nye. As you know, wait at the reactor for a fair wind, and I ... - Then they turn around, noticing an involuntary witness, and abruptly fall silent.

Sasha hastily turned away, finished drinking the divine three-kopek nectar, and is already running along Kurchatov Street to the Energetik recreation center. What is "20 milliroentgen", he does not know, but the adult swear word "p ... c" is familiar to him. The boys said the same when they discovered the ball was missing. Mom is still at work, I need to tell her about everything I saw. It would be great to also go somewhere for a while, until this story is forgotten, "plays" like a bandwagon in a football match, and then we'll see.

"Staging" gas masks

school corridor

Message from the nuclear future

On the square not far from the "White House" cars with Kyiv numbers are parked, from which serious uncles come out, many with big stars on shoulder straps. Children play in the sandbox on the playground, and the Ferris wheel is supposed to be launched, according to rumors, on the May holidays.

Sasha runs into the sports complex, where he has been a thousand times already, goes up to the second floor and breaks into his mother's office. A native anxious face, a palm on a short boyish haircut, and another unfamiliar word: "evacuation" ...

Collapsed School #1

Along the embankment now - a fence with barbed wire. At the nine-story building nearby on the Last floor, a panel departs and will collapse to the ground in the near future. The pier is the most polluted place in the city, dosimeters cheerfully snap off up to 1500 microR / h and are not going to stop there. Somewhere nearby, on the steps, there is a point source of radiation up to 4 R/hour, which is really hazardous to health. Here, people from the "nuclear future" are just in place. The pier is half-flooded, as is the landing stage nearby. Once upon a time, Pripyat was a fairly busy transport hub, and regular ferries ran along the river. After the accident, helicopters landed here, loaded with sand from barges and flew to the smoking reactor. The wind is now howling in the broken eye sockets of the cafe, drowning out the chirping of dosimetric instruments. The river is still there, but we are not on it. And the soda machine stands in its place, as in distant Soviet childhood, but we don’t rinse a faceted glass and pour half a glass, as we used to (syrup is served at the beginning, so it tastes better - the generation of ready-made Pepsi will no longer understand this).

Only 5 times higher than normal

Half flooded pier

Former mooring complex

Familiar Soviet machine gun

Sunken landing stage

It is somehow uncomfortable to realize that there is a decent “fonit” under you, so the stalkers unanimously leave the pier and head along Kurchatov Street past the Prometheus cinema to the square where the bus is on duty. Moss makes its way between the road slabs and shows 500–700 microR/hour. The walls of the hotel "Polesye" are painted by some French artists. Everything is very ambiguous - was it worth touching the past even with such emotional graffiti? But the “cosmonauts” certainly like them, which cannot be said about the former residents of Pripyat. After this action, the entrance to the Zone was permanently closed to the artists.

Hotel "Polesie"

Pripyat graffiti

The hotel building is well preserved, so you can walk there. In one of the rooms on the 2nd floor, the famous tree grows through the floor. For many years, one photographer comes here every year and takes a picture from the same angle. He photographs the process of Life in the city of Death.

The Palace of Culture was the pride of Pripyat. A gym, a swimming pool, a disco, a lot of rooms for all kinds of "circles" and "sections" - but what was there! Kyiv artists painted a panel at the entrance, which tells about the close-knit work of the leaders of the village and the creative intelligentsia. We enter under the concrete canopy of a building with real stalactites from under the ceiling. The picture, alas, is common to Pripyat: pogrom and desolation. In a huge gym, a tree grows and a rope hangs - the most unloved projectile of my childhood. For some reason, all classmates climbed to the ceiling faster, making them sweat and exhausted. Run the wheel of time back to 86, when the trees were big and didn't grow in gyms. I would still puff and still overtake my bosom friend Bulat on the rope, and at the distant and unfamiliar Chernobyl someone would not sign a dubious experiment. History could change its vector, and in two decades the author would not have written this guidebook, since we have a lot of small towns, and life will not be enough to tell about each one.

Central square of Pripyat

View from the park to the recreation center "Energetik"

All tours of the Palace of Culture "Energetik" necessarily end in the back room, lined with portraits of party leaders. That's who time has no power over. Concrete is destroyed, but the canvases are still strong, and the colors do not fade. In different photographs, they are located in different ways, someone is constantly moving them. Sign of freedom? In the same 1986, being a perestroika schoolboy, I turned the portraits with members of the Politburo that hung over the blackboard upside down and was accused of being anti-Soviet. Now, looking into the faces of the painted heroes of yesterday, I understand the illusory nature of ideas about freedom as an opportunity to move the portraits of the heroes of the moment. How many of them have already changed over the past twenty years in Russia and Ukraine, and freedom only grins at the inhabitants of the former one-sixth of the land and teases them from afar. I remember the Strugatskys and my favorite Roadside Picnic: “And again they crawled through the mind, like a screen, snouts ... It was necessary to change everything. Not one life and not two lives, not one fate and not two fates, every screw of this vile local stinking world had to be changed ... "

Rules broken

Ferris wheel, view from DC

All the strong, brave, dexterous left ...

"Thank you, I'll stand"

Overgrown 16-storey building

Take a ride, 600 uR/hour

The children's park, which is laid out not far from the Palace of Culture, is famous for its Ferris wheel, which is photographed almost more often than the sarcophagus itself. The wheel means childhood, and the Pripyat wheel is a symbol of the destroyed childhood. Sasha Sirota did not have a chance to ride it. The next day he left his city - as it turned out, forever. He lost his native place, as the children lose one of their parents. Orphan - an accident? Here, in Pripyat, I no longer believe in chance. The current Alexander, armed with a dosimeter, points to an inconspicuous spot on the pavement. One thousand micro-roentgens, the second, the fifth ... now there are ten of them. Ten thousand invisible micro-roentgens per hour who wanted to kill him On the cars that rolled him as a child - only 600. It seems to me that invisible death, above all else, wanted to poison this particular place, burn out the future so that the present would never come in Pripyat. She got her way: now this city has only a past.

park panorama

urban jungle

Crying for a Lost Childhood

memorial stele

We carefully climb the stairs of the 16-storey building, overgrown with vine shoots. Unknown forces uprooted the elevator, but could not carry the chair away and left it halfway. We walk in a chain, one person per flight. Sometimes I look into apartments that have been cleaned almost to the wallpaper. An amazing panorama of the jungle opens up from the roof, absorbing the remnants of its former splendor. Probably, the Frenchman Henri Muo experienced the same feelings in 1860, when he stumbled upon the ancient capital of Cambodia - the magnificent Angkor, completely overgrown with giant trees. The millionth Angkor destroyed itself, cutting down the jungle and burning under the scorching sun. The scorching sun of the fourth reactor rose over Pripyat 23 years ago and will not go beyond the horizon for hundreds of years. For a thousand years, nothing has changed in the sublunar world, and people are still destroying, through thoughtlessness, their corner, conquered from wild thickets.

I can clearly see the sarcophagus, the red-and-white pipe above it, the thread of the road from the Chernobyl nuclear power plant to the city, and the silent Pripyat quarters. Two quadrangles, cleared of age-old pines, are sites for new microdistricts that have remained in the project. The city's handsome stadium is so overgrown that it is almost invisible because of the foliage. The riot of colors noticeably dulls the feeling of tragedy, and I regret that I came here in the summer. If you happen to visit Pripyat again, then it will certainly be a cold season.

We leave the city, having looked at the construction ladle for the last time. It was used for liquidation work, they could not wash it and left it near some institution. “The bucket is very dirty, you should not come close!” - Alexander warns, almost climbing inside with a dosimeter. 2000 microR/hour - a hundred times higher than normal - and he prefers to move a few safe meters. I look around. Nearby stands a suspiciously red pine tree. Maybe it's just a disease, but there is only one life, and you don't want to test it with your own skin.

radioactive ladle

On the way back, the bus is much quieter than usual. "Stalkers for one day" comprehend what they saw, and this means that the main goal of the organizers of the trip has been achieved. To cheer up the sightseers, Anton Yukhimenko turns on the dosimeter and makes a cheerful announcement: “Attention, now we are passing the “western trail” zone. The radiation background in the central aisle of the bus is 1000 mR/h, at the windows - one and a half times more.” The owners of places in the middle feel like lottery winners, the "near-windows" envy them.

Mandatory stop at the concrete stele "Pripyat, 1970" at the exit from the city. I freeze for a second. Dinner in Chernobyl will be later. Then there will be a road to Kyiv, photo of the famous road sign"Chornobyl", a successful meeting with one of the world-famous specialists in the accident, former dosimetrist-liquidator Yevgeny Samoilov, and the evening Ukrainian capital, like greetings from another life. All this will come later. Forgive us, alive and well-fed, Pripyat! Now I'm standing with my head down and finishing this letter, and the non-existent postman is already waiting impatiently at your rusty box to send the envelope to its destination - to no one, nowhere. A short summer rain has just ended, and puddles sparkle on the sides of the road. Part of my heart breaks and doesn't want to leave. She says, "I'm staying. This is my place, my pain, my memory. My endless roadside picnic."

How do you think it will all end?

What are you about?

Visiting the Zone, stalkers… all this bunch… how can it end?

For whom? Be specific.

Well, let's say, for our part of the planet.

It depends on whether we are lucky or not ... Of course, it is possible that, dragging chestnuts at random from this fire, we will eventually pull out something that will make life not only for us, but for the entire planet simply impossible. It will be bad luck. However, you will agree that this has always threatened humanity.

(A. and B. Strugatsky, Roadside Picnic)

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