146379 Photography from scratch 0
In this lesson you will learn: Fundamentals of composition. Semantic and decorative composition of the frame. Compositional techniques: perspective, rule of thirds, golden section, diagonals. The main and secondary objects of the composition. The main mistakes of novice photographers.
What is composition? Composition (from Latin compositio) means the composition, connection, combination of various parts into a single whole in accordance with an idea. This refers to the thoughtful construction of the image, finding the ratio of its individual parts (components), which ultimately form a single whole - a complete and complete image.
Why is the right composition important? In order to better convey the idea in photography, special expressive means are used: lighting, tonality, color, point and moment of shooting, plan, angle, as well as pictorial and various contrasts. Reflection of living, real life will not be adequate without following certain rules. How, for example, to convey movement or the transience of a moment? This requires knowledge of the laws of composition, otherwise your photos will turn into random shutter clicks and will not be of interest to others.
The general meaning of a well-built composition of the frame is that we look at the photo easily and naturally. At the same time, we get aesthetic pleasure, we see the logical connection between objects in the frame, we admire the details of the image. It happens the other way around, we are surprised or shocked, everything is incomprehensible to us, but in this case, the correct - or intentionally wrong - composition conveys the author's creative intention through the photo.
Story center and balance
Any good photo should have a main subject, sometimes called semantic or plot center. This is what the author climbed mountains for, crossed deserts or simply distracted for a while from fun with friends in order to take out the camera and press the button. This center can be “me on barbecue”, or maybe a snowy peak, a lonely tree, a human face, or just a graceful curve of lines in an abstract still life.
In simple home photos, the subject and geometric center often coincide, that is, the main subject is right in the center of the picture. Family albums are full of such cards, and only the closest relatives are interested in flipping through them, and even more so looking at photographs. If a photographer wants to do something more than a picture of me against the backdrop of the pyramids, then one must be prepared for the fact that more time and effort will have to be spent.
Before you press the camera shutter button, decide on semantic center and find it in the surrounding space, mentally highlight what is the main thing, the most interesting for you. Perhaps at first it will not be easy and you will have to work with your head (well, turn in different directions, look around), but then, as you gain experience, your eyes will find interesting stories on their own.
We go further. There is a very old and simple rule that allows you to almost always succeed. Sometimes it is called rule of thirds. It allows you to harmoniously balance the image, giving it dynamics and visual naturalness. What is its meaning? The frame space is mentally divided by two horizontal and two vertical lines into equal parts. From three horizontal and three vertical stripes, a certain grid is obtained with points of intersection of the lines.
The most important elements of the frame are recommended to be placed along these lines or at their intersection points. The fact is that such an asymmetry of the image is perceived more naturally and in many cases allows you to effectively use the negative space around the main subject.
The rule of thirds is widely used in a wide variety of types of images. For example, in landscapes, the horizon line is often placed along the upper or lower third line, and next to one of the vertical lines, an object to which they want to draw attention (a tree, a building, and so on) is displayed.
When creating portraits, the face can be moved away from the center to avoid unnecessary resemblance to a “passport photograph”. To draw attention to the eyes, it is worth choosing a composition so that one eye is located at one of the upper intersections of the conditional lines.
For many centuries, to build harmonious compositions, artists also use the concept "Golden Ratio". Close concept to the rule of thirds. It was found that certain points in the picture composition automatically attract the attention of the viewer. There are only four such points, and they are located at a distance of 3/8 and 5/8 from the corresponding edges of the plane. Having drawn the grid, we got these points at the intersections of the lines.
$IMAGE8-left $A person always focuses on these points, regardless of the frame or picture format.
There are also minor lines that should "lead" the eye to the plot center. Minor lines can be understood not only as specific lines, but also as a series of objects or details located one after the other. That's what it is diagonal rule. According to the diagonal rule, important image elements should be set along diagonal lines. A diagonal composition with a direction from the lower left corner to the upper right corner is calmer than one built on the opposite, more dynamic diagonal.
Linear elements such as roads, waterways, waterfronts, and fences placed diagonally tend to make the landscape more dynamic than horizontal ones.
The balance in the picture - what is it for?]
The composition is balanced or unbalanced. What does it mean? Imagine that you are carrying a heavy bag in one hand. Your body will be an unbalanced composition. Holding an equally heavy bag in your other hand will balance your body composition. The fact is that any unbalanced composition looks random, but a balanced composition is harmonious, and it seems that no change is possible. In balance, everything is important, even the direction of movement of objects or their visual weight.
The easiest way to balance the composition is to position your subject in the center of the image. However, as we just discussed above, this is not the best solution. If you move an object to the side, the balance is disturbed. One part of the picture becomes, as it were, heavier and visually outweighs the other. The frame seems to want to rotate clockwise.
To correct an unbalanced composition, it is necessary to introduce some object into the empty part of the image. It should be noted that in photography, weight is replaced by volume (DOF), color, or associations with heavy or light objects. The colors in which objects are painted also affect their pictorial "weight" in different ways: red and its shades are heavier than blue, bright colors are heavier than dark ones.
It is also possible to balance, in terms of composition, the figure of the model through a variety of movements. If, for example, the model makes a hand gesture to one side, then compositionally it can be balanced by a foot gesture or head turn to the other side. That is, a gesture to one side of any part of the body is balanced by a gesture to the other side of the arm, leg, head or body bend.
You can apply one of the most amazing composition techniques - developing movement that balances the picture. This psychological effect suggests the presence free space in the direction of movement or gaze. One has only to leave free space in the frame where the movement develops, the composition immediately levels out.
In addition, the developing movement can be replaced by the direction of gaze. However, the views are also different, and they require different free space in the picture. A calm, good-natured or half-asleep look requires a bit of free space. But furious, fatal, enticing, much more. A look directed at oneself requires no space at all.
We should not forget about the psychology of the viewer: for example, human faces with pronounced emotional states, like a magnet, attract our attention.
ADVICE. Moving from left to right seems faster to us than right to left, and an object placed on the right side weighs more than one on the left. An object at the top of the frame "weighs" more than the exact same object at the bottom of the frame. A lone small element on the edge of the frame, located outside the main lines, compositionally "weighs" more than large object, which is centered or located on an axis passing through the center of the composition. We can say that the “lever” rule applies: the farther from the center of balance, the greater the “weight” of the element in the composition.
An important element is the background . Our eyes are selective, and often an inexperienced photographer sees only their main subject, but does not notice many distracting details in the background or near the subject center. Clear the frame of unnecessary details! Look around and choose the right background. Perhaps these passing random people will now move off the edge of the frame. Tree branches that “grow” behind people’s heads and interfere with the perception of an object can be removed by moving slightly to the side, etc.
In fact, choosing a background is one of the main tasks of a photographer, and if at first you had no problems with choosing an object, then anything can be a background. Take a look around, perhaps these bushes in the back are not as good as you think, bright flowers are very beautiful, but distract attention, and the carpet above the sofa where the guests are sitting is too colorful (by the way, a traditional mistake of amateur photographers, like the trash can in the back plan).
The camera, unlike the eye, impartially captures everything, and as a result, instead of an important event or fact, a certain vinaigrette of secondary, insignificant, and most importantly, distracting details may turn out in the picture. Background objects should not take your eyes off the main one, and if your main object is dark, then it is advisable to choose a lighter background, and vice versa: a light object stands out well against a dark background. At the same time, one should not forget about exposure corrections.
Perspective. A photograph in which you can feel the depth of space immediately attracts attention. Such pictures look better, they are more interesting to consider. The alternation of plans - front, middle and far - gives the photo a natural look.
For travel photos, try to choose a background that is not too colorful or bright, pay attention to how the background is lit. If your subject is in the shade, the background should not be the walls of buildings or architectural monuments brightly lit by the sun. It is better if the background is somewhat darker than the main object.
Try to mentally distribute the plans of your composition, note that in addition to the foreground, the lens will see objects that are behind your subject center and even further on the horizon. Pay attention to all intersecting lines and objects in the background. Very often, intentional manipulation of the background is used by photographers as a separate expressive technique.
Rhythm. Another important expressive means is rhythm, that is, the image of the same type of details, figures or silhouettes in the picture. Our whole life is an alternation of days and nights, seasons, so the rhythm helps to understand the non-randomness of the choice, and the gradual reduction of the same or similar figures - from large in the foreground to small in the background - again emphasizes the perspective. A large number of objects: houses, silhouettes, trees, with similar or even identical shapes can form an imaginary line, which will also lead the eye to the plot center and give it more meaning.
Compositional mistakes of novice photographers
Everyone gets invaluable experience, overcoming difficulties and failures. Everyone makes mistakes. This is what teaches us not to step on the same rake in the future. But, of course, no one wants to fill bumps, so it's best to learn from the mistakes of others and use the experience of professionals.
Consider typical compositional errors, which allowed everyone who has ever held a camera in their hands. These mistakes are found both in novice photographers and those who have some knowledge and experience.
Cropped parts of people or landmarks. To properly frame a shot, you just need to adapt to your camera and carefully monitor that the subject falls into the frame entirely.
Violation of the proportions of the human body. The wrong angle can distort the natural proportions of the body. When shooting from above, a person will appear with a large head and short legs. When shooting from below, everything will be the opposite. If getting such a picture is not your goal, keep an eye on the angle and proportions.
The collapse of the horizon. Many people make the mistake of holding the camera slightly tilted while shooting. The horizon line on the images should be parallel to the bottom and top edges of the image. Many cameras can display a grid on the screen to help frame alignment.
There is a foreign object in the frame. Such an error often occurs due to the fact that the frame is not lined up. Before taking photos, you need to think about what exactly should be in the picture, evaluate the surrounding space.
Unbalanced composition. An inexperienced photographer is unaware of the existence of the rules of the golden ratio, thirds, guide lines, etc., and why they need to know - even more so. Positioning in the center of the frame is perhaps the most famous and most common mistake. There is nothing wrong with the location of the object in the center, but such a frame is simply boring, it has no dynamics, plot, movement. Of course, sometimes such a composition is justified.
Unnoticed details in the background. The portrait, in which an arrow of a tower crane sticks out of the model's ear, and a flag flutters on top, have every right to exist, moreover, they are original. But in many cases, this is not the originality that you expect from a picture. Sometimes, after shooting, you wonder how you didn’t notice in the viewfinder that this pillar (trash can, apple core, bottle, cigarette butt ...) really spoils the frame. But it's too late, and not everything can be fixed with the editor.
Empty composition. There is too much empty space in the frame that does not carry any useful information. The viewer's gaze rushes about in this void, not knowing where to stop. Such a frame resembles the famous painting of the best Carlson in the world - “A Very Lonely Red Rooster”.
Overloaded composition. There are a lot of objects in the frame - photo garbage, it is not clear why they are needed, but the variety is sometimes impressive. Actually, the subject of the shooting is lost against their background, it is almost impossible to keep attention on it.
There are many more mistakes that photographers make, but in order to start learning the correct photography technique, you need to remember the basic rules, and always pay attention to the little things.
Lesson results: Composition helps the photographer to correctly build the frame, in accordance with the plan, convey his idea to the viewer through visual images and tell something about the world around him in photographic language. Familiarize yourself with the basic rules of framing and typical mistakes beginner photographers.
Practical task.
1. In almost all cameras in the viewfinder (on the screen) there is a grid showing the lines of the rule of thirds, and allows you to pre-evaluate the correctness of the composition, but most often it is mistakenly turned off by beginners. Turn on grid display. Refer to the instructions for your camera.
2. View your photos taken, for example, on your last vacation. Evaluate the correctness of their composition, find errors. Reframe these shots in the editor, if the space on them allows, so as to improve the compositional construction.
Photographing people is usually not the easiest direction for a beginner photographer. Everyone loves looking at good portrait photos, whether it's family, friends, or just an interesting face. And, as photographers, we have the ability to do very interesting photos, but due to inexperience, we often get angry when our expectations are not met. With the above in mind, here are a few technical advice to help you improve the quality of your portrait photography and use the desired camera settings for this. And finally stop being afraid to photograph people.
Focusing
Sony a99, 135mm, f/1.8, 1/250s, ISO 200We have five (or so) senses, but the one we use the most is our sight. This means that the eyes in the photo must be sharp, no matter how many people there are. Here are some tips to get sharp eyes.
Try to focus on one point. Auto modes don't always hit the target exactly, even if the camera is set to focus on the eyes. Use one point and focus on the closest eye. Lock focus and recompose the frame a bit if necessary to get the right composition before shooting.
After a few shots, check the sharpness. Be sure to enlarge the photo on the screen to see the eyes in more detail. Shoot again if you are not in focus. If the process still fails to achieve the ideal result, then most likely the matter is in the settings of your camera. Therefore, here are some of these settings that can affect focus misses.
Exposure in portrait photography
Canon 6D, 135mm, f/2.0s, 1/1600s, ISO 50 There are many rules for calculating the maximum slow shutter speed for certain lenses, but they don't always need to be followed, especially if you're photographing a live person who will naturally move.
Using a 50mm lens is not a good reason to use 1/60th of a second. If you are photographing a non-static subject, it is better to choose a shutter speed 1/320 in this case. It will not greatly freeze the movement in the frame and there will be no blurring. Oddly enough, many photographers have noticed that at this shutter speed, the photos are obtained as if with continued movement, more alive. Of course, if in the frame Small child, here you will need an exposure even shorter. After all, children are perpetual motion machines.
Don't rely on specifications cameras such as stabilization optical image. Stabilization can compensate for slight hand shaking, but will not solve the problem of fast movement in the frame. Therefore, let it be turned on, but so that the manufacturers of equipment do not come up with further, the photographer is always in charge of shooting.
Sony a99, 135.0mm, f/1.8, 1/1000s, ISO 200 To shoot a rather interesting outdoor portrait, it is better to open the aperture as wide as possible to get a blurry background. In the studio, the background is mostly uniform for portraits, but on the street, a lot of distracting objects can get into the frame (passers-by, protruding tree branches, etc.). For clarity, be sure to try to shoot a portrait with an open aperture (for example f 1.8) and with closed ( f 5.6), then you will definitely see the difference. A portrait with a blurred background will be more pleasing to the eye and all attention will be focused only on the subject. But even here there may be exceptions, if, for example, the background corresponds to the idea of the photo, you can cover the diaphragm a little (for example, to f2.8). It all depends on what you want to say with this photo.
Light is also very important, for example, when shooting in the midday sun, you will most likely get sharp transitions in shadows and highlights, so in this case, I advise you to find a shade or shoot at sunset, when the light is much softer and more pleasant.
Choosing the right focal length
Nikon D7000, 240mm, f/5.3, 1/320s, ISO 400For large portraits, lenses over 85mm are ideal. A 50mm lens is only suitable on a cropped camera (there it will just show itself as 85mm).
It's all about perspective distortion, and the wider the lens, the more we will notice distortions in the proportions of the face. But there are exceptions of course, there are photographers who shoot very skillfully at 50mm large portraits but they understand that this is not for everyone.
For starters, it’s still better to take a lens with a distance of 85mm, when shooting with it, we will hardly see any aspect ratio distortion.
Camera settings for group portraits
Canon EOS 6D, 85mm, f/2.2, 1/250s, ISO 400 Photographing a group of people is not easy in itself, you need to keep track of everyone, both to get into focus and to look at the camera (if necessary).
Now we are only interested in the technical part, that is, how to shoot a group of people so that they are all in focus.
The easiest thing you can do if the shooting is staged is to put people in a row, at the same distance from you. If the group is large, someone can stand behind someone's back, but at the same time, his face must necessarily be in the same row with others. So that they are all in the same zone of sharpness.
And how large this zone of sharpness will be depends again on the focal length of the lens and the distance from you to a group of people.
Next, select the desired aperture, depending on the lens you are shooting with, by the way, 50mm can come in handy here. To do this, focus on the closest person in the group to you, take a picture and see how the rest of the group turned out in sharpness. Aperture here can be from f2.8 before f 5.6. Also, do not forget about ISO, if you close the aperture too much, then most likely the ISO will need to be increased.
And as soon as you select all the necessary camera settings and take a few test shots, you can already start working with people - to amuse them, attract the attention of the smallest, or simply catch the moments of their interaction with each other.
I am glad to welcome you, dear reader. In touch with you, Timur Mustaev. As you can see, this blog has already covered many aspects of shooting landscapes, interiors, sports, and more. I did not talk about shooting people, although this is one of the most popular genres of our business.
Sometimes it’s portrait photography that moves people to buy. digital camera, and after that, beginners begin to look at the world in a new way. But we have already talked about the world, so now I will tell you how to photograph people correctly and what you may need for this.
Angle
In general, when photographing people, you need to take into account many aspects: angle, background, lighting, behavior with the model. It is worth starting with the choice of angle. Why? If we have a poor understanding of how a person can look from different angles, then how do we get a beautiful picture with his participation? So, the first thing to understand is what kind of photo the person himself wants: in full height, to the waist or just the face, and the poses can be completely different. Based on this, already determine the angle.
In the first case, there is only one unique condition successful shot: you need to shoot a person from the level of the chest or waist of the model, if we are talking about full length photography. Otherwise, the proportions of the human figure may be distorted by the optics of your camera and the picture will not be as beautiful as we would like.
Shooting, for example, from eye level will be beneficial when working with a bust portrait, and if you shoot from an angle below the waist or above the head, such photographs can be considered caricatured or playful.
Speaking about the look at the model, it is worth mentioning that a portrait strictly “on the forehead” very rarely turns out to be successful. Therefore, the person being photographed should be viewed approximately ¼ of a turn, as this can visually reduce the cheeks and hide asymmetrical facial features.
Also, don't act like photography is work, boring and monotonous. It may be true, but creating such an atmosphere on the set is not worth it. Otherwise, the photographed person may behave stiffly and stiffly, be shy. You need to try to avoid this in order to obtain the highest quality result.
Background
It can be both the most important part of photography and be useless. Everything here depends on you: if you want, shoot outdoors, lame, plain white background, indoors – there are no restrictions. However, one should remember a few simple rules so as not to spoil the photo with anything superfluous.
First of all, you should look at the lampposts, trees, bushes, diagonals, the horizon - at all the lines of the frame, and make sure that they do not “cut” the person into pieces, do not go out of the head and would not enter it. Try to make the background as adequate as possible.
If you decide to work at home or in the studio - choose the most neutral background. Plaid wallpaper in bright colors is a bad option for a background. It is better to use an absolutely one-color background or discreet shades so that they do not distract attention from the person.
Lighting
It depends on how your model will look in the photo. With this parameter, you can both ruin everything, and save an initially hopeless picture. There are several tips for shooting in different conditions. I propose to consider some of them.
The first tip is to beware of the bright midday sun if you work outside. As paradoxical as it may sound, bright sun may damage the picture. Why? It will make the model squint, the shadows on the face will be deeper and sharper, and you can also just get overexposed objects. Therefore, many recommend working early in the morning or in the evening, or on a cloudy day.
Second - try to shoot in the shade if the clear sun caught you by surprise. It is better, by the way, to use the shadow of the building so that it is uniform. As you know, the leaves of trees have small gaps between them, through which unwanted light can enter the model.
Third - if you still can't find a suitable shade, avoid shooting against the sun. It is impossible for the model to squint, but I don’t want to get a black silhouette either. Therefore, I recommend to become sideways to the sun's rays: this is how some kind of compromise will be reached.
If you have to shoot against the light, use an external flash in fill light mode. Yes exactly external flash should be used in such a situation: the built-in one will definitely not be enough. The same advice will be relevant for shooting at sunset, with the only difference being that our flash will play the role of the main light. Another useful accessory can be or.
Once in the studio, everything becomes a little easier. There are a couple of basic rules here, without which it will be very difficult to get an even, high-quality photo. It is necessary to use lighting devices with the same color temperature, use soft diffused light, and also abandon fluorescent lamps.
Important Notes
Among other things, it is impossible not to say about some details that are knocked out of the description of the choice of angle or background. First of all, this is the processing of the received photo. It is worth remembering that you need to carefully crop it, select the most natural color balance and preserve the natural skin color of the model.
Also, don't cut people's body parts. It doesn't matter if it's the head, legs or arms. An exception can be considered only certain genres of portraiture, such as half-length, chest or knee-length.
When working with the model, you should also remember a few important tips so as not to embarrass the person. A photo session in such conditions will be flour for both participants in the process, and the result will be an unpleasant result.
- First tip: don't force your gaze into the frame. This can be done only in very rare exceptions when absolutely necessary.
- Second tip: A model's constant smile isn't always the best. the best option. Sometimes a pensive, sad, resentful or cunning face can look more beautiful than a smile.
Don't miss this and get a masterpiece shot.
You can also try to photograph the model before the process itself: this will help to get a more natural facial expression, real human emotions, and this is the most important thing in photographing people.
If possible, try to shoot in , which will help you better edit your shot after shooting.
- (if you have a NIKON) or My first MIRROR(if you have CANON) - It is from this course that I recommend starting to become a photographer. It contains all the basics for a correct understanding of the very essence of photography. Everything is shown on practical examples, which is important!
- - Here the photo processing itself is already underway. From which side is it better to approach editing, how to do it correctly so that, for example, the skin is not “rubber”, and so on. A lot of practical examples, tips. This video course is designed specifically for photographers!
My first MIRROR— for owners of CANON photographic equipment.
Digital SLR for beginners 2.0- for owners of NIKON photographic equipment.
Photoshop for photographer 3.0. VIP
That's all for today. I told you what it takes to shoot a person in all the scenarios that come to my mind. I hope you enjoyed it and share this article with your friends who own reflex camera. If you have done this, I advise you to subscribe to blog updates. There will only be more such texts in the future. Goodbye!
All the best to you, Timur Mustaev.
In the digital world, pictures taken with a camera are not valued properly. Most people “shoot” with their camera like a machine gun, and in the end, out of 250 photos, only 5-10 are good. During the reign film photography, people approached each frame with special care and brought the picture, as they say, to the right one. The reason for this was the strict limitation of the film in terms of the number of frames.
Creativity is certainly great, but do not forget about the most important rules for creating quality photography. With the help of these recommendations, you can avoid the stupidest mistakes and improve your professional level. The skill is “honed” frame by frame, and how much joy a photo taken in an ideal way can bring to your partner. It is professionalism that allows you to create chic and expensive photographs.
There are several principles of photography that must be observed in any situation.
Diagonals.
The photograph should permeate the entire spectrum of the picture. The lines should lead the eye into the depth of the image, as if you are immersed in the picture. You can use rivers, roads, walls, etc. as diagonals. When photographing a person, use body parts, poses, or clothing borders. The diagonal rule is created by the arrangement of objects in the frame. Line up imaginary lines extending at 45 degrees from the corners of the frame. 
The rule of thirds.
This concept is also called the "golden section". Visually divide the photo into nine equal parts. The subject must be located at the intersection points of these lines. These intersections are called nodes of attention. If this object were to be placed in the center of the frame, the picture would lose its dynamics and drama. "Golden Rectangles" are pleasing to the eye and will add harmony to any landscape. 
The division scheme of the "golden rectangle" is presented below. 
In each frame, you should observe the symmetry or asymmetry of objects. With the help of some elements of the frame, it is possible to establish a balance between objects. The presence of symmetry is necessary, but excessive symmetry can "kill" the drama and emotion in certain paintings. Due to the correct symmetry, you can draw attention to the desired object. 
Background.
The background you have chosen should not overshadow the main subject. It is very important to choose the right background to maintain the atmosphere of the frame. It is convenient to use an abstract background without the presence of distracting objects. In this case, you can successfully highlight the main subject of the photo. Some photographers use telephoto lenses, which, due to the narrow angle of view, do not allow unnecessary elements to be included in the frame. Such elements can carry an unnecessary semantic load and spoil the atmosphere of the frame. 
Depth.
Foreground, middle and background are the three most important areas into which you need to break the picture. The 2D medium of photography will not be able to capture the full depth of a real landscape without the proper preparation you need to make. Another option is to cover all secondary objects with the main object. 
Depth of field.
By adjusting the depth of field, you can focus on the main subject by blurring the background and extra items. Depth of field is one of the most effective tools for highlighting objects. 
Framing.
Natural frames (frames) can very successfully emphasize the beauty of the object, focus attention on it and saturate the frame with life reality. Natural framing can be found in almost any situation and anywhere. Use elements such as tree branches, part of a fence, a window, an arch, and more. 
Geometric picture.
Various geometric shapes of objects carry certain emotions. Almost everything can be attributed to simple geometric shapes. At the same time, you can create the desired emotional background for each picture. Rectangular objects evoke a sense of stability, round objects create calmness, and so on. 
tonal perspective.
To achieve maximum volume in the frame, use the right color contrast. The proximity of an object can be conveyed by the darkness of the object, and the distance, on the contrary, by a light perspective background. The feeling of depth can be enhanced by the "play" of colors and shades. 
Black and white frame.
With the help of black and white shooting, you can correctly convey the emotional component of the frame and the overall atmosphere. In this way, you can convey hopelessness, dullness of everyday life, hopelessness, reconciliation with reality and other "dark" emotions. On black and white photography the eye first of all falls on light objects. The dark areas of the frame fade into the background. This trend is opposite to the color picture. In a b/w photo, the light lines of objects seem paramount. 
Remember that by adhering to these rules, you improve your professional level. However, it is worth leaving room for improvisation. Unexpected shots can turn out much more natural and interesting than prepared ones.
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