Good afternoon I'm in touch with you, Timur Mustaev. How well do you know your technique? I cannot deny the importance of ideas and imagination for photography, but somewhere, perhaps, boring technical moments are indispensable.
Knowing the features of a particular camera is the key to productive interaction with it. How else can you get amazing photos? The only way. The basis of the basics can be called the ability to set the desired modes on the camera. But how to work with them correctly? We will talk about this a little, and most importantly, we will figure out what the manual mode of the camera means.
About modes in general
Modes, or shooting methods, are a very significant characteristic of a camera. They are required for all cameras. The model here does not affect this, for example, you have canon or nikon - in any case, the set of modes is more or less standard. I will quickly go over the main ones, and in more detail, of course, we will touch on the manual one.
So, on the right side of the body of photographic equipment, you can find a movable wheel with all sorts of letters and symbols. This:
- Auto. And in principle, other “colorful” names of modes can be attributed here - Landscape, Portrait, Night, Children, Macro, etc. Their whole point is that the camera chooses the parameters itself, there will certainly be small differences in each, but in general they are small. And I'm almost sure that if you take pictures on a car, then you will not pay attention to the values \u200b\u200band other parameters at all. Otherwise, the mode is called - "Point and shoot!".
- Software (P). In many ways it is similar to the previous one, except that you can set the ISO sensitivity yourself. Not a very big deal, I tell you, but you need to start somewhere!
- . On Nikon, it is denoted by the letter A, on Canon (any, for example, Canon 600D) - Av. The f-value is determined by the photographer, and the shutter speed is determined by the camera. A convenient way to shoot when you are photographing a stationary subject or landscape.
- (S - Nikon, Tv - Canon). Everything is also clear, inversely to aperture priority: choose the time. Fast or slow shutter speeds, respectively, can freeze or blur motion.
- Manual (M)– beyond creative modes. All parameters are up to you!
Advantages and disadvantages of manual mode
Well, let's talk about the advantages and disadvantages of the latter mode.
Main advantage M lies in the mass of photography opportunities that you control. And this means that whatever the external conditions or the specifics of the object in the frame, you can deal with them.
Moreover, the selected values will be saved. They will not jump with any change in circumstances or camera position as they do in other modes where the camera controls part of the exposure.
One of the shortcomings, or rather a natural consequence of the first statement, is that if you are a beginner and poorly versed in the camera, then self-tuning the camera will not do anything and may completely confuse you.
Also, as you might expect, manual mode takes more time, because until you evaluate the circumstances, until you set everything up.
Therefore, it cannot be called mobile in any way, especially with constantly changing lighting, weather or shooting location.
Practice for beginners
Experienced photographers, of course, do not have a question how to use M. Although it is not always a priority in work. I personally often use the aperture mode, but when I'm in no hurry and want to achieve the perfect picture, I'm happy to fiddle with all the available options, choosing the right values.
This mode is always used when photographing in the studio.
Getting started with manual mode can be difficult. Seeing the main parameters on the screen, do not rush to change everything at once. Assess the conditions: what time of day, how sunny, and adjust the ISO.
Next, decide on the purpose of filming, what is important to photograph. So, if you need to make a portrait of a girl, then adjust the aperture, and then the shutter speed. In a situation of freezing a moving object, it is definitely more important to determine the shutter speed: focus on 1/800 sec. and below, 1/1000 and so on. To blur the background around a moving object, on the contrary, the time should increase, 1/400 and so on.
Pay all attention to the built-in exposure meter, which you will notice in the viewfinder. Ideally, the small arrow should be at 0 - this is a normally exposed picture, if it deviates to the left or right, it will be under- or overexposed.
When is manual mode useful?
I want to give a few examples where manual mode would be useful.
- Shooting in low ambient light or at night without flash. The camera will not be able to take an adequate picture in any other mode than the manual - it will have too little light. The photographer, on the other hand, can set even the lowest values, at which the exposure meter will simply go off scale, but the camera will take a picture. The resulting image can be brightened using exposure compensation or already in post-processing. In this case, shooting sunsets, an exact or evening city, and so on can serve as an example.
- In studios. With it is necessary to synchronize the camera through a special device, synchronizers. And this synchronization is most often done thanks to a predetermined aperture, shutter speed and ISO.
- Special lenses are manual lenses that have problems transmitting aperture information from the camera.
- Creating high-resolution HDR images, that is, the picture in this case consists of several others, taken with different parameters. Manual mode is also useful here if you are a professional and know what kind of photo you want to get in the end.
I wonder what other parameters can be configured manually? If you carefully look at the menu, you can find a lot of interesting things.
Various cool chips are available even to owners of soap dishes or not very expensive DSLRs, for example, Nikon d3100 and its series. We must use every opportunity to somehow improve our frame, make it unique. Settings help us!
Here we can distinguish the following: according to Kelvin, brightness and saturation at the photographing stage, area and location of the focus point, etc. But these are completely different articles.
Conclusion
How about manual mode? Difficult? In the beginning, it's always like this, don't be discouraged, now I'll tell you a little trick to better understand this mode.
Pick up something you would like to photograph. For this example, conditions are not important, you shoot at home or on the street. Set the camera to Auto mode, but without the flash, it is also on the wheel, only marked with a crossed out lightning bolt. It is advisable to fix the camera.
You can use the table. Place an object at one end and a camera at the other. The distance between them should be within 1 meter.
Aim the camera at the subject and press the shutter button halfway so that the camera focuses on the subject, but do not press all the way. Either in the visor (the eye where you look in a SLR camera), or values, shutter speeds, apertures, ISO will appear on the screen. Write them down. After recording the data, you can press the button to the end and take a picture, let it be your option.
We switch to M mode, set the settings that you recorded and take a picture. Let's see how it turned out. Next, we start experimenting. If the picture is dark, you can open the aperture, i.e. put a value less than 5.6, 4.0, 3.5. Or increase the shutter speed, 1/400, 1/200, 1/100 and so on.
If, on the contrary, the photo turned out to be bright, do the opposite actions of the aperture and shutter speed. Try not to touch the ISO, but it's better to bring it to 100 and practice with shutter speed and aperture.
But remember, the smaller the aperture value, the smaller it is!
If you want to develop in the field of photography and learn how to do it well, full mastery of the manual mode is necessary for you. I can also recommend a good video course below. It details what it can do. reflex camera. Many tricks and secrets of photography are revealed. Everything is shown in examples. Everything is explained in a very accessible and understandable way. I recommend!
Digital SLR for beginners 2.0- for owners of a NIKON SLR camera.
My first MIRROR- for owners of a CANON SLR camera.
See you! Dear readers, do not be too lazy to study your camera. And my blog will help you with this! In order not to miss anything useful, subscribe to the update. Share with your friends, I will be very grateful.
All the best to you, Timur Mustaev.
Even the most experienced photographer can sometimes use pre-programmed modes to focus on the shot rather than calculating the exposure and never miss a chance to get a great shot. But if you're new to photography or want to expand your skills beyond Auto mode, then start by leaving the green square area.
When you set up your camera to take a picture, there are four main outcomes to choose from: deep DOF, shallow DOF, motion blur, or motion freeze. How do you know which modes to use to get the desired result in your photo? Let's get a look.
Auto (Green square)
In Auto mode, your camera will automatically set the shutter speed, aperture, ISO, white balance, and even the built-in flash for you.
Pros: This is a great option for beginners - but don't get addicted to it! Use it only until you learn how to set up the camera yourself.
Disadvantages: under certain lighting conditions, automatic settings can lead to undesirable results. For example, a backlit portrait will only show the silhouette. In low light conditions, the image may appear blurry and grainy; the camera can also choose to use the built-in flash to add some light, and many camera models do not have a flash off feature if you don't want to use it.
When to use: Every time you use your camera as a compact, this is your mode.
This portrait was deliberately taken with the sun set to Auto. The camera did a decent job of setting the exposure, but the shot is still 1/2 stop underexposed. Settings auto exposure such: excerpt 1/250 sec., diaphragmf/6.3, ISO 100.If excerpt AndISOacceptable, That diaphragm Can was would decrease And do background less distracting.
Program mode(P)
In Program mode, your camera will automatically set your shutter speed and aperture, but will let you select ISO, white balance, exposure compensation, and flash.
Advantages: This is a great next step for a beginner who wants to have a little more control over their camera and improve their photos.
Flaws: As with Auto mode, certain lighting conditions may produce unpredictable results due to partially automatic settings that sometimes leave results to chance.
When to use: Use this mode if you want to take a step towards full control over camera settings.
A priority excerpts(TV - Canon) (S - Nikon)
In Shutter Priority mode, you choose your shutter speed and ISO and the camera will automatically set the appropriate aperture for the correct exposure.
Advantages: Great for capturing frozen action and motion blur of moving objects.
Flaws: In this mode, you control the shutter speed, so be careful what aperture the camera chooses for the correct exposure. It also matters what lens you use. Some cameras can shoot at very fast shutter speeds, but if the lens doesn't have a large enough aperture, the image will be underexposed. For example, if you're shooting at 1/4000 sec and the correct exposure requires f/2.8, but your lens maximizes it at f/3.5, the image will be underexposed.
When to use: Use this mode when you need to control the movement of the subject you are photographing. Use a fast shutter speed if you want to capture motion, or a slow shutter speed if you want to blur motion. This mode is also useful when using large mm lenses when you need to set a fast shutter speed to prevent camera shake from blurring the image.
Shutter priority was used with a shutter speed of 1/8 sec to blur the fast moving water.
Freezing very fast movement- 1/3000 sec.
Athletes on the move– from 1/500 to 1/1000 sec.
Birds in flight– from 1/1000 to 1/2000 sec.
Walking people- 1/250 sec.
Panning moving objects– 1/30 to 1/125 sec.
Blurring of fast moving water- 1/8 sec.
Blurring of slow moving water- 1/2 sec.
aperture priority (AV – Canon) (A – Nikon)
In Aperture Priority mode, you choose the aperture and ISO and the camera will automatically set the appropriate shutter speed for the correct exposure.
Advantages: Aside from Manual (next paragraph), Aperture Priority is the most popular mode among photographers, mainly because it gives you control over what is in focus and what isn't. And in most cases, the element that is in focus makes the photo successful or doomed to failure.
Flaws: In poor lighting conditions, the camera may select a very slow shutter speed, resulting in image blur due to both subject movement and camera shake.
When to use: Use this mode when you want to control the depth of field of your image. The larger the aperture, the more light will hit the camera sensor and the shallower the depth of field will be. Conversely, the smaller the aperture, the less light will hit the sensor, and the greater the depth of field. Keep in mind that changing the aperture will affect the shutter speed. More light from a large aperture will result in a fast shutter speed, and less light from a small aperture will result in a slow shutter speed.
Set to Aperture Priority to increase depth of field.
landscapes- f/8 or higher for greater depth of field
portraits– large aperture (f/2.8) for shallow depth of field and blurry background
Macro- f/8 or higher for greater depth of field
Manual mode (M)
Manual mode allows you to change both shutter speed and aperture independently of each other. The camera does not make any automatic adjustments. Your camera's built-in exposure meter will tell you which exposure is right, but you can have full control over the shutter speed and aperture settings individually to get the exposure that's right for the shot you want. Before using manual mode, it's a good idea to become familiar with the exposure triangle (shutter speed, aperture, and ISO) and how they will affect the image.
Advantages: This mode gives you full control over the image you create.
Flaws: While this mode gives you a lot of creative options, you should be careful to check the exposure of each image at all times, especially under rapidly changing lighting conditions.
When to use: After you learn how to use this mode, its effects and settings results, and how they work together, you will use this mode almost always.
IN manual mode a small aperture was used to control the depth of field, and a slow shutter speed to blur the movement of the water.
Mode Scenes
Scene Mode is very similar to Auto. You select a scene, and the camera sets the optimal settings for a given scenario. Different camera models may have different Scenes, but the ones listed here are the most popular:
Sport- The camera will increase the ISO and use a fast shutter speed to capture motion.
Scenery– the camera uses a small aperture to maximize the depth of field; the flash can also be disabled.
Portrait- The camera will use a large aperture to keep the background out of focus. Some camera models use face detection in this mode.
Macro- The camera will select a small aperture to give as much depth of field as possible.
Advantages: Like Program, this Scene mode is primarily a starting point for beginners and usually produces better results than shooting in Auto mode.
Flaws: These settings usually give the desired result, but sometimes it can be different and unreliable.
When to use: Scene mode can be the next step for beginners after Auto mode, use it as a starting point to learn how your camera works and improve your photography skills.
So Which mode the best?
Which mode to use is up to you. But if you choose Auto, Scene, or Program modes and want to improve your photos, learn how to set the correct exposure based on shutter speed, aperture, and ISO; this will help you make the right settings and create nice photos. For professional photographers, the two most popular modes are Manual and Aperture Priority. But remember that professionals were once beginners too. So enjoy your photography experience no matter which mode you choose!
Front panel of the camera body
1. Red-eye reduction lamp
To prevent red-eye from appearing in the frame, you need a light source that will compensate for the glare from the flash. This lamp is such a light source. The lamp also acts as a handy self-timer countdown indicator.
2. Focus ring
In auto focus mode, this ring rotates until the camera focuses on the subject. In manual focus mode, you can turn the ring yourself and focus on the desired shooting point.
3. Zoom ring
Rotate the ring clockwise to zoom out and get a wide angle shot. Turning the ring counterclockwise will bring the subject closer and give you close-up removed object.
4. Flash button
When shooting in semi-automatic or manual mode, you have the option to turn on the built-in flash. To do this, click this button.
5. Focus mode switch
Here you can set the AF (autofocus) mode if you want the camera to focus on its own. You can also switch to MF (manual focus) mode, in which case you will control the focus yourself. In manual focus mode, you can use the autofocus points in the viewfinder to tell you exactly what your camera is concentrating on.
6. Image stabilization switch
IS (Image Stabilizer) lenses are designed to prevent blur caused by camera shake (especially noticeable when you focus on a distant subject). Nikon lenses have a similar VR (vibration reduction) switch.
7.Built-in microphone
Most cameras like the Canon 500D (pictured above) can now record video. Audio for these videos is recorded through the built-in microphone.
8. Depth of field and preview button
By clicking on this button, you can see what your frame will look like with these settings.
Rear panel of the camera body
1. Exposure compensation button
In. While in manual mode, hold down this button and rotate the main command dial to open or close the aperture.
2. Focus point selection
Press this button and then rotate the channel selector to select the camera's AF point to use.
3. Exposure lock button
This button allows you to lock the exposure. You can also use it to zoom out when viewing a picture on the LCD monitor in playback mode. It also allows you to focus the camera when using Live View.
4. Live view
Click here to see what the camera will capture on the LCD screen. The newest cameras have a Live View feature that eliminates the need to view the scene through the viewfinder.
5. Four control buttons
These buttons allow you to navigate through the camera's menus and submenus. Also, each button allows you to get into a specific settings menu. Thus, the buttons provide quick access to popular functions such as WB (white balance) or AF (autofocus).
6. Self-timer
This button allows you to change the shooting mode on the camera and set the timer shooting.
7. Play button
The play button allows you to view the pictures you have taken.
8. Delete button
The button with the universal trash can symbol allows you to delete files that you, while viewing on the display, decide to get rid of.
9. Menu button
Pressing this button will give you access to a wide range of menus and submenus where you can change the settings to suit your requirements.
Top panel of the camera
1. Built-in flash
When you're shooting in low light, the built-in flash can help you get a decent shot. In some modes, you will need to turn it on manually. In scene modes, the flash fires automatically.
2. Shutter button
This button is required to take a picture. By pressing the button halfway, you will be able to focus, or activate auto focus. When fully pressed, the camera will take a picture.
3. Main dial
Rotating this dial allows you to manually set the camera's aperture or shutter speed.
4.ISO button
By pressing this button you can adjust the ISO sensitivity. You can then use the main command dial to increase or decrease the ISO level. You also have the option to set the ISO manually using the appropriate menu item.
No matter how long you have your digital camera, there is always something to learn. And if you've just bought your first DSLR, the learning curve can seem incredibly daunting.
But this should not scare you and discourage you from working. In this article, we'll help you get the most out of your DSLR by explaining the features of some key functions, which are in almost every model.
Learning camera functions and controls early on in your exposure to photography will help you avoid some common mistakes, which will make your photos look better and more beautiful.
Front panel of the camera body
1. Red-eye reduction lamp
To prevent red-eye from appearing in the frame, you need a light source that will compensate for the glare from the flash. This lamp is such a light source. The lamp also acts as a handy self-timer countdown indicator.
2. Focus ring
In auto focus mode, this ring rotates until the camera focuses on the subject. In manual focus mode, you can turn the ring yourself and focus on the desired shooting point.
3. Zoom ring
Rotate the ring clockwise to zoom out and get a wide angle shot. Turning the ring counterclockwise will bring the subject closer and give you a close-up of the subject.
4. Flash button
When shooting in semi-automatic or manual mode, you have the option to turn on the built-in flash. To do this, click this button.
5. Focus mode switch
Here you can set the AF (autofocus) mode if you want the camera to focus on its own. You can also switch to MF (manual focus) mode, in which case you will control the focus yourself. In manual focus mode, you can use the autofocus points in the viewfinder to tell you exactly what your camera is concentrating on.
6. Image stabilization switch
IS (Image Stabilizer) lenses are designed to prevent blur caused by camera shake (especially noticeable when you focus on a distant subject). Nikon lenses have a similar VR (vibration reduction) switch.
7.Built-in microphone
Most cameras like the Canon 500D (pictured above) can now record video. Audio for these videos is recorded through the built-in microphone.
8. Depth of field and preview button
By clicking on this button, you can see what your frame will look like with these settings.
Rear panel of the camera body
1. Exposure compensation button
In. While in manual mode, hold down this button and rotate the main command dial to open or close the aperture.
2. Focus point selection
Press this button and then rotate the channel selector to select the camera's AF point to use.
3. Exposure lock button
This button allows you to lock the exposure. You can also use it to zoom out when viewing a picture on the LCD monitor in playback mode. It also allows you to focus the camera when using Live View.
4. Live view
Click here to see what the camera will capture on the LCD screen. The newest cameras have a Live View feature that eliminates the need to view the scene through the viewfinder.
5. Four control buttons
These buttons allow you to navigate through the camera's menus and submenus. Also, each button allows you to get into a specific settings menu. Thus, the buttons provide quick access to popular functions such as WB (white balance) or AF (autofocus).
6. Self-timer
This button allows you to change the shooting mode on the camera and set the timer shooting.
7. Play button
The play button allows you to view the pictures you have taken.
8. Delete button
The button with the universal trash can symbol allows you to delete files that you, while viewing on the display, decide to get rid of.
9. Menu button
Pressing this button will give you access to a wide range of menus and submenus where you can change the settings to suit your requirements.
Top panel of the camera
1. Built-in flash
When you're shooting in low light, the built-in flash can help you get a decent shot. In some modes, you will need to turn it on manually. In scene modes, the flash fires automatically.
2. Shutter button
This button is required to take a picture. By pressing the button halfway, you will be able to focus, or activate auto focus. When fully pressed, the camera will take a picture.
3. Main dial
Rotating this dial allows you to manually set the camera's aperture or shutter speed.
4.ISO button
By pressing this button you can adjust the ISO sensitivity. You can then use the main command dial to increase or decrease the ISO level. You also have the option to set the ISO manually using the appropriate menu item.
5. On/off button
This will allow you to turn off the camera when not in use (although it will automatically go to sleep after 30 seconds of inactivity).
6. Mode dial
On the mode dial, you can set the desired shooting mode. The disc contains all possible scene modes, semi-automatic and manual mode.
7. Hot shoe
Using a SLR camera, you will be able to set the flash as additional source Sveta. An external flash is usually more powerful and easier to control.
Top Reasons to Buy a Universal 35mm Lens
The history of luxury 35mm lens goes back to the early days of photography. This is one of the best lenses ever made, with a brilliant focal length that can be applied to any photograph. Whether on a full frame or cropped camera, this lens has its own added value.
35mm optics dominate not only in the world of photography, but also in cinema. In the days of film cameras, "35mm" was the width of the film used. Later, this format was adapted for photography and has not lost popularity since then.
During the First World War, 35 mm was widely used in Leica cameras, which were mainly used for outstanding military shots.
And now, let's look at the various factors that speak in favor of this lens.
Why is a 35mm lens useful?
In this article, we list the top reasons why you should get a 35mm lens if you don't already have one:
· This is ideal for shooting while walking, if you want to photograph everything you see.
· It is much more versatile than any other optic option. It also outperforms the 50mm lens as you get a wider and more varied perspective with it.
This type of optics gives a fairly wide-angle coverage on a full frame, as well as on a camera with a “cropped” matrix.
· At f/1.4, this lens is the fastest lens in its category, and wide open allows a large number of Sveta. Therefore, it is good for shooting in difficult conditions with insufficient lighting.
· The 35mm focal length draws you in to your subject. Therefore, it is suitable for both street photography and portrait photography, when the subject becomes especially important.
· This lens can be enough for you to shoot landscapes.
· With this lens, you can get close to your subject as the minimum focus distance is much shorter than other lenses with a focal length range above 35mm.
· It is a miniature lens with a low weight, which means it will not burden you too much, and you can almost always take it with you.
· Such a lens, as a rule, is the most frequently used and quickly self-sustaining.
· With an aperture of f/1.4, it allows you to create excellent portraits with wonderful bokeh.
· Has a large maximum aperture, is sold at an inexpensive price and has a multi-purpose application.
5 things you need to know about DSLRs
Buying a camera is the most important choice for every photographer. This article provides 5 criteria to help you choose the camera that is right for you. It will be about the resolution of the matrix, shooting modes, user interface, and much more that you should know when choosing.
The world of photography has reinvented itself with the advent of digital technology. Gone are the days when only the elite could do photography, people with big money. Now almost everyone can afford to buy a camera.
You can talk a lot about convenience compact cameras, but for optimal quality images, and limitless creative possibilities, only a real semi or professional camera will do.
The rise in popularity and affordability of SLR cameras is fueling fierce competition among major camera manufacturers such as Canon, Nikon, Pentax and Sony.
This state of affairs is extremely beneficial for consumers, as camera manufacturers strive to constantly improve their product by introducing new innovative features into cameras that increase their performance and improve image quality, while making DSLRs easier to use. But what are the key factors to consider when choosing a camera? This is what we will talk about today.
Benefits of SLR cameras
The advantages of DSLRs over more compact cameras are numerous and varied - first of all, this is the size of the image sensor. Many compact cameras can have the same or even more megapixels than a DSLR, but resolution per se is not the key to image quality, so don't forget that!
Image sensors in DSLRs are physically larger than in compact cameras, and this makes a significant difference in image quality. First, a larger sensor means more pixels, which individually capture more light. This, in turn, greatly reduces the digital image noise and graininess that can occur when shooting at high ISO speeds.
Secondly, the larger sensor allows for shallower depth of field, which means you can get beautiful bokeh and nice background blur that will look great in macro photography and portraits.
Another important advantage is that the DSLR allows you to see the world through the lens as it will later be in the picture.
Ideal Camera
A DSLR is more comfortable to use, manual zoom and focus rings on the lens allow you to focus with much greater accuracy and get the shot you were aiming for.
In addition, when you buy a SLR camera, you open up a whole world of possibilities and discoveries, you get a whole system. You will have the opportunity to buy and change lenses, and various accessories that will make the creative process more enjoyable and productive. On the other hand, when buying a compact, you limit yourself to only one camera, which in a year, at most, will not be enough for you.
Today we will dwell in more detail on the main fundamental differences between different types of SLR and compact cameras, as a result of which, you can make right choice, depending on the type of camera you want to purchase.
Body design and new features of SLR cameras.
Most DSLRs are built on the basis of their predecessors, but unlike previous models, the new models offer many innovative improvements.
Shooting modes
All DSLRs generally have the usual set of modes, which includes auto, manual, aperture priority, shutter speed priority, and modes corresponding to different types scenes. So-called scene modes are available on cameras designed specifically for beginners, such as the Canon EOS 60D and Nikon D3100. The same modes are available on compact cameras. Mode selection most often occurs through the wheel on the top of the camera.
LCD display
The LCD display is important not only for accessing the menus of a digital camera, it is also the main way to view footage, to check the accuracy and sharpness of the frame.
Relatively inexpensive cameras such as the Canon EOS 1100D often have a low LCD resolution of around 230K pixels, while high end models such as the Canon EOS 60D can have a resolution of 1,040,000 pixels.
Mirror
The main difference between a DSLR and a compact is that a DSLR has a mirror assembly that reflects the image from the lens up into the optical viewfinder, allowing you to see a very precise focus and zoom position.
autofocus
More autofocus points allow you to focus on the subject as accurately as possible, while such cameras have several points that allow you to track randomly moving objects in continuous autofocus mode.
Inexpensive models of SLR cameras usually have nine or eleven autofocus points, while more sophisticated models have more autofocus points. For example, the Nikon D800 has 51 focus points.
ISO sensitivity
Sensitivity has improved significantly with many DSLRs in Lately. The maximum ISO level has been increased, which means that you can now photograph in low light conditions much more productively. Increasing the ISO makes the sensor more sensitive to light, allowing the camera to capture even the weakest of the sun's rays without having to use slow shutter speeds.
The higher the ISO value you use, the higher the sensitivity, but as the sensitivity increases, the level of digital noise increases. Older models like the Canon EOS 1000D typically top out at 1600 ISO, while modern models like the Canon EOS 1100D offer much higher ISO speeds, around 6400 in the standard range, expandable to 12800 ISO.
Professional full-frame models such as the Nikon D4 allow you to shoot at up to ISO 24,800. Improved sensors, combined with advanced image processors, make it possible to take great photos with little noise, even at high ISO settings.
Number of megapixels
The number of megapixels is often the first criterion that not very experienced amateur photographers pay attention to when purchasing their camera. In fact, resolution does not play the first role in choosing a camera.
What resolution is desired? The first SLR cameras were equipped with matrices with a resolution of about 6 megapixels. This seems to be an extremely low resolution compared to today's standards, but even this was enough to get decent photos A3 format.
To date, the smallest resolution among DSLRs is equipped with a 12.1 MPix matrix. and its latest full-frame model, the D800, features a 36.3 megapixel sensor.
A few years ago, Canon had cameras with the highest resolution, but now the company is playing catch-up with other companies, cameras with APS-C sensors have a resolution of 12.2 megapixels. (for 1100D) up to 18 MPix. (in the 600D, 60D and 7D), the full-frame camera is equipped with a 16.1 megapixel sensor (in the 1D Mk IV), as well as 22.3 megapixels. (for the new 5D Mk III).
However, Nikon's flagship D4 full-frame DSLR costs around £5,000 and has a resolution of "only" 16.6 megapixels.
creative cropping
Higher resolution images allow you to crop the image as much as you like. For example, if with a telescopic zoom, you didn’t get the object as large as you wanted, having a camera with a high resolution matrix, you can crop your picture without losing quality, thereby bringing the object closer.
In this case, another problem may arise, this is the quality of the optics. If the quality of the camera lens is not high enough, you risk getting chromatic aberration (color fringing) in your image.
File sizes
Large resolution photos, speaks of big weight images, especially if you are shooting in RAW format. For example, RAW images taken with the EOS 600D or 7D can be around 25MB, while an image of the same format taken with the Nikon D90 and D300S will be around 10MB.
This means not only that your memory card will fill up faster, but also that the camera may run more slowly when shooting continuously.
Noise level
Very often, camera manufacturers supply their camera with a high-resolution sensor, while the physical dimensions of the sensor are insufficient, as a result of which the matrix does not capture much light, and grain appears. Especially strongly, noise begins to appear when shooting at high ISO values.
By developing the latest sensors and image processors, manufacturers strive to minimize noise levels.
Capturing video with a camera
Until recently, video recording was only available on compact cameras. With the advent of Live View, which allows you to take pictures using the LCD rather than through the viewfinder, means more and more DSLRs boast high definition (HD) and video capabilities.
Evolution
The functionality of the first SLR cameras were pretty narrow. Video recording, in general, initially appeared on more professional models such as the Canon EOS 5D Mark II, and only over time began to appear on the entry-level Nikon D3200 and Canon EOS 650D models.
Considering how quickly video recording capabilities have evolved among other companies, Sony has lagged a little behind in terms of the level of its cameras, precisely in this parameter. But models like the A580 and SLT A55 have taken the company to new heights, and now Sony's products can compete not only in image quality, but also in video quality.
HD formats
DSLRs have improved with the times, so cameras released a year or two ago tend to offer high quality video and 720p resolution. The 720p format is progressive, that is, each frame is created through one pass.
By comparison, at 720i (interlaced), a frame is created by scanning two alternating lines (half-frames). The latest cameras are usually capable of recording Full HD high-definition video at 1080p resolution.
Frame frequency
A range of frame rates, including 24, 25, 30 and 50fps (frames per second), allows you to create video files that are as good as those created on a camcorder. The video quality can meet the standards of film and television around the world.
This is becoming especially important as DSLRs are increasingly being used to shoot professional video for TV commercials and video clips. Considering that the size of the sensor increases, which means that background blur becomes more noticeable, then operators can achieve excellent depth of field in their videos.
sharpness
One of the main problems that arise when recording video on SLR cameras is autofocus. To create the clearest possible video, good tracking autofocus is essential. The Canon EOS 650D is the first entry-level DSLR to offer fast, accurate autofocus when shooting video.
Viewfinder
A good viewfinder is essential for creating beautiful photos. It is important not only for accurate photo composition, but also for greater accuracy when it comes to adjusting focus.
pentamirror
Cheaper entry-level DSLRs like the Canon 1100D and even some of the more expensive models, including the Canon EOS 650D and Nikon D5200, use a penta-reflex viewfinder. They are cheaper to manufacture and lighter in weight than pentaprism. Such a viewfinder is created from a set consisting of three separate mirrors.
The main disadvantages of penta-mirror viewfinders based on digital SLR cameras is that the image they convey is a little darker and more gloomy, and may lack image contrast a little. Of course, this does not affect the quality of the created image, but simply distorts the picture that you see through the viewfinder. Without knowing about such distortions, you may not fine-tune your camera, and as a result, get an image that is not what you expected to see.
Pentaprism
The pentaprism viewfinder is considered the best viewfinder for cameras for a reason. More expensive and professional cameras are equipped with a pentaprism viewfinder, such as Canon EOS 60D and EOS 7D, Nikon D7000 and D300s, and all full frame cameras such as Nikon D600 and Canon EOS 6D.
The pentaprism viewfinder is made of five single-sided glass blocks, the pentaprism reflects the image onto the mirror twice, creating an accurate image of reality. A pentaprism viewfinder is relatively heavy and more expensive than a pentamirror viewfinder, but you get higher quality and brighter images as a result.
Electronic
For compact cameras that do not have a built-in optical or electronic viewfinder (EVF), a special electronic device, which allows you to connect an external viewfinder to a camera such as the Olympus.
Additional slot EVFs, most often of the hot shoe type, the mount is located on the top of the camera, such a viewfinder is often quite expensive, its cost is around £150 (up to £200). Another disadvantage of an external viewfinder is that it cannot be used simultaneously with external flash, which is attached through the same hot shoe.
Review
Ideally, the field of view should be 100%, meaning you see the image through the viewfinder the same size as it would be captured on the camera, but often not. Many viewfinders, especially cheaper ones like PentaSLRs, tend to only give 95% of the field of view, so you won't be able to see everything that ends up in the photo.
In practice, this is not a big problem, you can even find some advantages in this. So, you will always have a little extra space around the edges, which can come in handy when leveling the horizon (rotating the image a few degrees)
Good, pentaprism viewfinders give about 98% of field of view, and the best ones provide full 100% field of view.
Zoom
Of great importance is zooming, and the possibility of maximizing the approximation of the image. For example, the Canon EOS 550D only offers a 0.87x magnification, while the Canon EOS 7D gives a direct zoom of 1.0x.
Performance
Photographs of moving objects, or in sequential shooting, it is very convenient to shoot in continuous shooting mode, so this criterion is also important when choosing a good camera. In addition, a high frame rate can be very useful in portraiture, allowing you to capture a fleeting facial expression.
Continuous Shooting
By switching the camera to continuous shooting mode, the camera will continue to shoot as long as you keep your finger on the shutter button. Memory buffer limitations limit the ability to record images. Cameras such as the Canon EOS 1100D and Nikon D3100 can only shoot three frames per second, while flagship cameras such as Canon's EOS-1D X are capable of up to 12 frames per second (or 14 frames per second if shooting in JPEG format).
Mid-range cameras such as the Canon EOS 7D are capable of shooting at 8 fps, while the Nikon D300S shoots at 7 fps, this speed can be increased to 8 fps by attaching the optional MB-D10 Battery Grip.
Computing power
To have the highest possible shooting speed, cameras must have high processing power so that they can process all the images in rapid succession. The imaging chips in the latest cameras tend to be much more powerful than those in older models. Some cameras, such as the high-speed Canon EOS 7D, are actually equipped with two image processors, giving them even more performance.
Even the most experienced photographer can sometimes use pre-programmed modes to focus on the shot rather than calculating the exposure and never miss a chance to get a great shot. But if you're new to photography or want to expand your skills beyond Auto mode, then start by leaving the green square area.
When you set up your camera to take a picture, there are four main outcomes to choose from: deep DOF, shallow DOF, motion blur, or motion freeze. How do you know which modes to use to get the desired result in your photo? Let's get a look.
Auto (Green box)
In Auto mode, your camera will automatically set the shutter speed, aperture, ISO, white balance, and even the built-in flash for you.
Pros: This is a great option for beginners - but don't get addicted to it! Use it only until you learn how to set up the camera yourself.
Disadvantages: under certain lighting conditions, automatic settings can lead to undesirable results. For example, a backlit portrait will only show the silhouette. In low light conditions, the image may appear blurry and grainy; the camera can also choose to use the built-in flash to add some light, and many camera models do not have a flash off feature if you don't want to use it.
When to use: Every time you use your camera as a compact, this is your mode.
This portrait was deliberately taken with the sun set to Auto. The camera did a decent job of setting the exposure, but the shot is still 1/2 stop underexposed. The auto exposure settings are: shutter speed 1/250 sec., aperture f/6.3, ISO 100. If the shutter speed and ISO are acceptable, then the aperture could be reduced and the background less distracting.
Program mode (P)
In Program mode, your camera will automatically set your shutter speed and aperture, but will let you select ISO, white balance, exposure compensation, and flash.
Benefits: This is a great next step for a beginner who wants to have a little more control over their camera and improve their photos.
Disadvantages: As with Auto, certain lighting conditions can produce unpredictable results due to partially automatic settings that sometimes leave results to chance.
When to Use: Use this mode if you want to take a step towards full control of your camera settings.
Shutter priority (TV - Canon) (S - Nikon)
In Shutter Priority mode, you choose your shutter speed and ISO and the camera will automatically set the appropriate aperture for the correct exposure.
Benefits: Great for capturing frozen action and motion blur from moving objects.
Disadvantages: In this mode, you control the shutter speed, so be careful what aperture the camera chooses for the correct exposure. It also matters what lens you use. Some cameras can shoot at very fast shutter speeds, but if the lens doesn't have a large enough aperture, the image will be underexposed. For example, if you're shooting at 1/4000 sec and the correct exposure requires f/2.8, but your lens maximizes it at f/3.5, the image will be underexposed.
When to use: Use this mode when you need to control the movement of the subject you are photographing. Use a fast shutter speed if you want to capture motion, or a slow shutter speed if you want to blur motion. This mode is also useful when using large mm lenses when you need to set a fast shutter speed to prevent camera shake from blurring the image.
Shutter priority was used with a shutter speed of 1/8 sec to blur the fast moving water.
Very fast movement freeze - 1/3000 sec.
Athletes in motion - from 1/500 to 1/1000 sec.
Birds in flight - 1/1000 to 1/2000 sec.
People walking - 1/250 sec.
Panning moving objects - 1/30 to 1/125 sec.
Blurring fast moving water - 1/8 sec.
Slow moving water blur - 1/2 sec.
Aperture Priority (AV - Canon) (A - Nikon)
In Aperture Priority mode, you choose the aperture and ISO and the camera will automatically set the appropriate shutter speed for the correct exposure.
Benefits: Apart from Manual (next paragraph), Aperture Priority is the most popular mode among photographers, mainly because it gives you control over what is in focus and what is not. And in most cases, the element that is in focus makes the photo successful or doomed to failure.
Disadvantages: in poor lighting conditions, the camera can choose a very slow shutter speed, resulting in blurry images due to both subject movement and camera shake.
When to Use: Use this mode when you want to control the depth of field in your image. The larger the aperture, the more light will hit the camera sensor and the shallower the depth of field will be. Conversely, the smaller the aperture, the less light will hit the sensor, and the greater the depth of field. Keep in mind that changing the aperture will affect the shutter speed. More light from a large aperture will result in a fast shutter speed, and less light from a small aperture will result in a slow shutter speed.
Set to Aperture Priority to increase depth of field.
Landscapes - f/8 or higher for greater depth of field
Portraits - Large aperture (f/2.8) for shallow depth of field and blurred backgrounds
Macro - f/8 or higher for greater depth of field
Manual mode (M)
Manual mode allows you to change both shutter speed and aperture independently of each other. The camera does not make any automatic adjustments. Your camera's built-in exposure meter will tell you which exposure is right, but you can have full control over the shutter speed and aperture settings individually to get the exposure that's right for the shot you want. Before using manual mode, it's a good idea to become familiar with the exposure triangle (shutter speed, aperture, and ISO) and how they will affect the image.
Benefits: This mode gives you complete control over the image you create.
Disadvantages: While this mode offers a lot of creative possibilities, you have to be careful to check the exposure of each image all the time, especially in conditions of fast changing lighting conditions.
When to use: After you learn how to use this mode, its effects and settings results, and how they work together, you will use this mode almost all the time.
In Manual mode, a small aperture was used to control the depth of field and a slow shutter speed was used to blur the movement of the water.
Scene Mode
Scene Mode is very similar to Auto. You select a scene, and the camera sets the optimal settings for a given scenario. Different camera models may have different Scenes, but the ones listed here are the most popular:
Sports - The camera will increase the ISO and use a fast shutter speed to capture motion.
Landscape - the camera uses a small aperture to maximize the depth of field; the flash can also be disabled.
Portrait - The camera will use a large aperture to keep the background out of focus. Some camera models use face detection in this mode.
Macro - The camera will choose a small aperture to give as much depth of field as possible.
Benefits: As with Program, this Scene mode is primarily a starting point for beginners and usually produces better results than shooting in Auto mode.
Disadvantages: These settings usually give the desired result, but sometimes it can be different and unreliable.
When to use: Scene mode can be the next step for beginners after Auto mode, use it as a starting point to learn how your camera works and improve your photography skills.
So what is the best mode?
Which mode to use is up to you. But if you choose Auto, Scene, or Program modes and want to improve your photos, learn how to set the correct exposure based on shutter speed, aperture, and ISO; this will help you make the right settings and create good photos. For professional photographers, the two most popular modes are Manual and Aperture Priority. But remember that professionals were once beginners too. So enjoy your photography experience no matter which mode you choose!
Translation: Tatyana Saprykina
profotovideo.ru
Updated: 2017-08-29 Oleg Lazhechnikov 44
If you bought a camera more serious than an ordinary soap dish, then most likely you will want to master manual settings(although they also happen on soap dishes). And I would even advise you to do it as soon as possible, so that even if you shoot in automatic mode, you understand what is happening.
There are few basic parameters on the camera that you will control, but they are all closely interconnected: shutter speed, aperture, ISO, white balance. There is also such a parameter as DOF (depth of field), which in itself is not set in any way, but it turns out due to other parameters. I'm afraid for the first reading all this will seem too complicated and scary, but here I can only advise you to try as much as possible at first. Shoot the same frame with different settings and then see what happens, look for relationships, analyze. And do not forget about the instructions for the camera, it's practically desk book at first time.
All parts of my FAQ for beginner photographers
1. What camera to choose for a beginner photographer 2. What lens is needed for what and what to choose 3. Basic digital camera settings
4. How to take photos while traveling
5. How to process photos in Lightroom and how to store them 6. An example of a photo bag and a photo backpack for a traveler 7. How to photograph the starry sky 0. How do I photograph when traveling
The main settings of a digital camera are shutter speed and aperture, their relationship is called exposure. Therefore, when they say you need to choose an exposure, they mean you need to set these two values.
Basic digital camera settings
Excerpt
Changes in seconds (1/4000, 1/125, 1/13, 1, 10, etc.) and indicates the time that the camera shutter opens when the shutter is released. It is logical that the longer it is open, the more light will fall on the matrix. Therefore, depending on the time of day, the sun, the level of illumination, there will be a different exposure parameter. If you use automatic mode, then the camera itself will measure the light level and select a value.
But not only the exposure is affected by shutter speed, but also by the blurring of a moving object. The faster it moves, the shorter the shutter speed should be. Although in some cases, on the contrary, you can make it more authentic in order to get an “artistic” smear. In the same way, blurring can come from trembling of your hands (shake), so you should always choose such a value to level out this problem, and train so that there is less trembling. A good stabilizer on the lens can still help you with this, it allows you to use slower shutter speeds and prevents shake.
Exposure selection rules:
- To prevent blurring from hand shake, always try to set your shutter speed to no slower than 1/mm, where mm is millimeters of your current focal length. Because the larger the focal length, the greater the likelihood of blurring, and the more you need to shorten the shutter speed. For example, the shutter speed of 1/50 will be the limit value for 50 mm, and it would be even better to set it even shorter somewhere around 1/80, just to be sure.
- If you are shooting a walking person, the shutter speed should be no slower than 1/100.
- For moving children, it is better to set the shutter speed to no slower than 1/200.
- Very fast subjects (for example, when shooting from a bus window) require very fast shutter speeds of 1/500 or less.
- At night, to shoot static objects, it is better not to raise the ISO too much (especially above the working value), but to use slow shutter speeds (1s, 2s, etc.) and a tripod.
- In case you want to shoot beautifully flowing water (with lubrication), then you need shutter speeds of 2-3 seconds (I don’t like what happens longer). And if splashes and sharpness are needed, then 1/500 - 1/1000.
The values are all taken from the head and do not pretend to be axioms, it is best to select them yourself on personal experience so this is just for guidance.
Shutter speed 1/80 is too long for such movements, it turns out blurry
Exposure 3 sec - water like milk
Diaphragm
Denoted as f22, f10, f5.6, f1.4 and means how open the lens aperture is when the shutter is released. Moreover, the smaller the number, the larger the diameter of the hole, that is, as it were, vice versa. It is logical that the larger this hole, the more light enters the matrix. In automatic mode, the camera itself selects this value according to the program sewn into it.
The aperture also affects the depth of field (depth of field):
- If you shoot a landscape during the day, then feel free to cover the aperture to f8-f13 (no longer worth it) so that everything is sharp. In the dark, in the absence of a tripod, on the contrary, you will have to open it and increase the ISO.
- If you are shooting a portrait and want the most blurry background, then you can open the aperture to the maximum, but keep in mind that if your lens is fast, then the f1.2-f1.8 values \u200b\u200bmay be too high and only the person’s nose will be in focus, and the rest of the face blurred.
- There is a dependence of DOF on aperture and focal length, therefore, in order for the main object to be sharp, it makes sense to use f3-f7 values, increasing it depending on the increase in focal length.
Aperture f9 - everything is sharp
105 mm, f5.6 - the background very blurry
ISO sensitivity
Denoted ISO 100, ISO 400, ISO 1200, etc. If you've been shooting on film, remember that films were sold with different light sensitivities, which meant the film's sensitivity to light. The same for a digital camera, you can set the sensitivity of the matrix. What this really means is that your frame will be lighter as you increase the ISO at the same shutter speed and aperture settings (at the same exposure).
A feature of good and expensive cameras is a higher working ISO, reaching up to 12800. Now this figure does not tell you anything, but it's really cool. Because at ISO 100 you can only shoot in daylight, and setting 1200 and above already twilight is not a hindrance. Budget DSLRs have a maximum working ISO of around 400-800. Next comes color noise. Crank up your ISO and take a shot at dusk and you'll see what I'm talking about. Soap dishes with this parameter are very bad.
ISO 12800 - noticeable noise, but it can be partially removed during processing
ISO 800 at the same settings, the photo is much darker
white balance
Surely you have seen photos where there is too much yellowness or blueness? This one is just because of the wrong white balance. The fact is that depending on the light source (sun, incandescent bulb, white light lamp, etc.), the color gamut of the photo depends. Roughly speaking, imagine that we will shine a special blue lamp on an armchair and then the whole photograph of this armchair will be cyanotic. If this is a special artistic effect, then everything is fine, but if we need normal shades, then setting the white balance will save us. All cameras have presets (automatic, sun, cloudy, incandescent, manual, etc.).
To my shame, I must admit that I always shoot on the machine. It’s easier for me to correct everything in the program later than to set the white balance. Perhaps someone will consider this blasphemy, but everything suits me, and I think the majority will also suit, so I will not talk about manually setting the white balance.
Focus point selection
As a rule, for all good cameras it is possible to select a focus point, as well as their automatic selection (when the camera itself selects objects and decides on what to focus on and how). I rarely use automatic mode, mainly when there is little time and objects are moving, for example, in a crowd of people, when there is no time for reflection. In all other cases, I use the center point. He pressed the button, focused, without releasing the button, took it to the side, and pressed it to the end, taking a shot.
One point focus selection (center point)
The center point is usually the most accurate, which is why it should be used. But you need to look at a specific camera model, for example, now on my current camera all points are working. I also wanted to say that if your camera is dull and does not focus well (twilight, backlight), then you need to look for the border of light and dark and focus on it.
In backlight, it is easiest to focus on the border of the hair
Depth of field
Depth of field is the range of distances at which all objects will be sharp. Imagine that you are photographing a person and there is a straight line: camera - person - background. The focus point is on the person, then everything will be sharp in the range from this person to you for a certain number of meters and from this person towards the background also for a certain number of meters. This range is the depth of field. In each case, it will be different, because it depends on several parameters: aperture, focal length, distance to the object, and on the model of your camera. There are special depth of field calculators where you can enter your values and find out what distance you get. For landscapes, you need a large depth of field so that everything is sharp in general, and for portraits or highlighting objects using background blur, a shallow depth of field.
You can play around with the calculator to understand the relationship of these parameters a little. But in the field you will not have it at hand, so if you are not a professional photographer, then it will be enough to remember some values \u200b\u200bthat are convenient for you, and also to look at the display each time (zooming the photo) what you did and whether you need rephoto.
Focusing on the number 5, cutting only the strip 4-5-6
First of all, you need to remember that:
The more the aperture is opened, the shallower the depth of field. - The longer the focal length, the shallower the depth of field.
The closer the object, the shallower the depth of field.
That is, when shooting at close range, for example, a person's face at 100 mm and aperture 2.8, you risk getting only a sharp nose, while everything else will be blurry.
73 mm, f5.6, shot as close as possible, and therefore only a finger is in focus
You will need empirically feel this "triple" dependence of depth of field on focal length, aperture and distance for the object. For example:
- When photographing landscape or other subjects at a wide angle, you can always use f8-f13 and everything will be sharp. In fact, the calculator says that you can open the aperture much wider, but I like these values. As a rule, I always put f10 (in the afternoon).
- For a beautiful blurry background, you don’t need to have an expensive fast lens with which you can open the aperture very much, a regular zoom with a standard aperture is enough, you just need to move away and zoom in on a person (for example, by 100 mm) and then even f5.6 will be enough for you to blur the background.
- The distance from the subject of photography to the background plays a role. If they are very close, then it may not be possible to blur the background normally, you will have to use a large focal length and a very open aperture. But if the background is very far away, then it will almost always turn out to be blurry.
- If you are photographing a flower at close range, and for some reason you need to sharpen the mountains on the horizon, then you will have to clamp the aperture to the maximum to f22 or more. True, in this case there is a chance to get a still not sharp image due to other features.
Alternatively, you can just remember a couple of things. We shoot landscapes and similar plans at f10, people and objects are selected at f2.5 (50 mm) or f5.6 (105 mm).
Relationship between shutter speed, aperture, ISO and semi-automatic modes
We got to the most difficult, to the relationship of all these parameters. I'll try to explain what's what, but still you can't do without trials. First of all, I want to advise you to use at the very beginning not the full manual mode (called M), but semi-automatic ones (Av and Tv for Canon, or A and S for Nikon), because it is much easier to think about one parameter, and not about two at once .
So, I have already given some interconnections a little higher. And if it is quite difficult to figure out the depth of field at first, then choosing a shutter speed and aperture without reference to the depth of field will be easier. It all comes down to ensuring that your frame is moderately light / dark, because even if you shoot in RAW, it’s not a fact that you can stretch the photo with too erroneous values. And that is why I am for semi-automatic modes.
Aperture priority (Av or A)
Let's say you are photographing a landscape in Av mode and your focal length is 24mm. Set f10, and the camera selects the shutter speed for you. And all that remains for you is to make sure that it is no longer than the critical value of 1 / mm (I wrote about this above in the Exposure paragraph). What to do next?
- If the shutter speed is shorter than 1/24, for example 1/30 or 1/50, then everything is in order.
- If the shutter speed is longer than 1/24, then you will have to set more ISO.
- Further, if the ISO is not enough, then you can start opening the aperture. In principle, you can initially immediately open it at f5.6-f8, and then increase the ISO.
- If the maximum working ISO is already set and there is nowhere to open the aperture, then either “put your hands on your sides” to somehow reduce the jitter, or look for a surface where you can put or press the carcass, or get a tripod. Alternatively, you can raise the ISO even higher, but then the photo will be very noisy.
Shutter priority (Tv or S)
It is better to shoot moving objects or people in Tv mode so that there is no blurring of the object. Naturally, the shorter the shutter speed, the better, but if there is not much light, then you can focus on the values \u200b\u200bthat I gave in the paragraph on shutter speed. That is, we set the shutter speed and control which aperture the camera will choose. It is better that it is not fully open, especially on fast lenses. If there is not enough light, then we also increase the ISO, if it is still not enough, then we try to lengthen the shutter speed.
ISO 1600 f2.8 1/50 sec - the parameters are at the limit, because it is dark and we are moving
Exposure compensation
Av and Tv are also convenient here. Since the camera measures exposure at the focus point, and it may be in the shade, or vice versa, it is too lit, the aperture or shutter speed selected by it may not correspond to the required one. And the easiest way to correct them is with exposure compensation, just turn the wheel 1-3 steps in the right direction and that's it, that is, if you need to make the whole frame darker, then minus, if lighter, then plus. In low light, I always shoot at -2/3 minus right away to have more headroom.
P.S. I hope the article was not too complicated and readable. There are many nuances, but it is difficult to place them here, given that I myself do not know many things. If you find an error, write in the comments.
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Basic Canon camera settings for shooting, taking beautiful photos
Settings Canon camera for shooting - this is the main and first action that should be performed by every novice photographer after choosing and buying a camera. You should remember only one thing, well-chosen camera settings will help you make a big step in the field of professional photography.
There are several basic actions or rules that you must do in order to make your photos delight you on any trip, we will tell you how to do this and what camera settings you need to change on our travel-picture.ru travel website.
For beginners in professional photography and the first camera setup, we recommend reading the instructions, most of the answers, of course, can be found in the instructions for use, for advanced amateur photographers, we advise you not to waste time and register on specialized forums, here you will find wider camera settings for shooting and more professional advice for art photography.
Accumulator charging
The first thing you need to do when setting up a SLR or regular camera is to charge the battery. All batteries tend to discharge, so remember once and for all - for the full operation of the battery on the camera, a full charge-discharge cycle is required. Let us explain, after buying a camera, first of all we fully charge the battery by 100%, then we discharge it to about 5%, this cycle must be repeated several times. 
The charge-discharge cycle of the battery is needed so that your battery has a strong supply of energy and an increased charge capacity for the full operation of the camera, which it loses in the process of rest in anticipation of its new owner in the store.
The second setting of the camera - formatting the memory card
The next camera setup is to format the memory card. Formatting a memory card deletes all factory information and cleans the card's memory. If you are formatting a memory card through a computer, then do not forget to set FAT32 in the formatting settings, and not NTFS, as many do.
Formatting through the camera is done using the camera settings menu, Canon camera settings for formatting are indicated by a wrench.
Choose image quality and size
In the settings of the camera responsible for the quality and image, there are many different things. For those photography lovers who just take pictures, the quality “S1” with an image size of 2592 × 1728 or “S2” with an image size of 1920 × 1280 will suffice, such image settings are quite worthy for wallpapers on a widescreen monitor.
Do not forget to additionally set the RAW quality (for processing photos in Photoshop). By setting the camera settings in addition to RAW quality and S quality for a regular photo, you kill two birds with one stone. First, you photograph the landscape you like, and if you need to correct the white balance or other image settings, then RAW will do it in Photoshop without losing quality.
